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视黄醇的光降解及两种市售乳液的抗老化效果

Photodegradation of retinol and anti-aging effectiveness of two commercial emulsions.

作者信息

Carlotti M Eugenia, Ugazio Elena, Sapino Simona, Peira Elena, Gallarate Marina

机构信息

Dipartimento di Scienza e Tecnologia del Farmaco, Università degli Studi di Torino, via Giuria 9, 10125 Torino, Italy.

出版信息

J Cosmet Sci. 2006 Jul-Aug;57(4):261-77.

Abstract

Two commercial anti-aging products, RETI C and RETI C concentrate emulsions, containing retinol and vitamin C, were studied. The concentration of vitamin A was determined over time, subjecting the creams to an accelerated stability test. Both emulsions, when stored at 25 degrees C, showed a moderate decrease over time in retinol concentration, while after storage at 40 degrees C the percentage of retinol degraded increased over time. Under UVA irradiation, the retinol degraded to a greater extent than under UVB irradiation, both in RETI C and RETI C concentrate emulsions. In order to verify the anti-aging effectiveness of the emulsions, an in vivo test on some female volunteers was carried out, evaluating the visible results of the application of the creams on the skin surface. The creams were rather unstable after storage at 40 degrees C, but they were effective in treating the signs of aging and in reducing facial wrinkles.

摘要

对两种含有视黄醇和维生素C的商业抗衰老产品RETI C和RETI C浓缩乳液进行了研究。通过对这些面霜进行加速稳定性测试,测定了维生素A随时间的浓度变化。两种乳液在25℃储存时,视黄醇浓度随时间有适度下降,而在40℃储存后,视黄醇降解的百分比随时间增加。在UVA照射下,RETI C和RETI C浓缩乳液中的视黄醇降解程度均比在UVB照射下更大。为了验证乳液的抗衰老效果,对一些女性志愿者进行了体内测试,评估面霜涂抹在皮肤表面的可见效果。这些面霜在40℃储存后相当不稳定,但它们在治疗衰老迹象和减少面部皱纹方面是有效的。

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