将降低破波 crest 速度与非定常非线性水波群行为联系起来。
Linking reduced breaking crest speeds to unsteady nonlinear water wave group behavior.
机构信息
School of Mathematics and Statistics, The University of New South Wales, UNSW Sydney, NSW 2052, Australia.
School of Mathematics and Statistics, The University of New South Wales, UNSW Sydney, NSW 2052, Australia and Water Research Laboratory, School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, The University of New South Wales, Manly Vale, New South Wales 2093, Australia.
出版信息
Phys Rev Lett. 2014 Mar 21;112(11):114502. doi: 10.1103/PhysRevLett.112.114502. Epub 2014 Mar 19.
Observed crest speeds of maximally steep, breaking water waves are much slower than expected. Our fully nonlinear computations of unsteadily propagating deep water wave groups show that each wave crest approaching its maximum height slows down significantly and either breaks at this reduced speed, or accelerates forward unbroken. This previously noted crest slowdown behavior was validated as generic in our extensive laboratory and field observations. It is likely to occur in unsteady dispersive nonlinear wave groups in other natural systems.
实测的最大陡破破碎波波峰速度远低于预期。我们对非稳定传播深水波群的完全非线性计算表明，每个波峰在接近其最大高度时都会显著减速，要么在减速后破碎，要么继续向前不破波传播。这种先前被注意到的波峰减速行为在我们广泛的实验室和现场观测中被验证具有普遍性。它可能在其他自然系统中的非稳定弥散非线性波群中出现。
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