Potter J, Fuller B
University of Chichester, College Lane, Chichester, West Sussex, UK -
J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 2015 Dec;55(12):1438-44. Epub 2014 Oct 6.
Recovery is essential to effective performance in climbing competitions which often involve repeated bouts, and sport climbing where climbers may work a route over a number of days prior to a complete ascent.
This study employed a cross-over design to compare water with chocolate milk as recovery aids following an exhaustive bout of high intensity endurance climbing. Ten male climbers (age: 22±1 years; height: 178.5±7.9 cm; mass: 74.7±11.3 kg) climbed a Tredwall (Brewer Ledge M6) until volitional exhaustion. The participants consumed either water or chocolate milk 20 minutes after the climb and then again with their evening meal. The exercise protocol was repeated 24 hours after the original climb. The second condition was completed 7 days later. Workload indicators of heart rate, rate of perceived exertion (RPE), blood lactate and muscle soreness scores were recorded alongside climbing performance measures of duration and distance of the climb. A improved performance was found after the consumption of chocolate milk, with both a greater distance climbed (F(1,9)=11.704, P=0.008) and duration (F(1,9) =10.922, P=0.009), there were no differences in end of climb heart rate or RPE.
Muscle soreness scores were lower three days after exercise following chocolate milk (t(8)=3.773, P=0.005). Chocolate milk as a recovery drink resulted in further sustained climbing, a decrease in muscle soreness, compared to water. It may be pertinent for climbers to consider its use as a recovery aid during repeated climbing bouts. Chocolate milk is a relatively unexplored recovery aid and warrants further attention.
恢复对于攀岩比赛中的有效表现至关重要,攀岩比赛通常包含多次攀爬回合,而在竞技攀岩中,攀岩者可能会在完全登顶前的数天内多次尝试攀爬同一路线。
本研究采用交叉设计,比较在高强度耐力攀岩力竭后饮用白水和巧克力牛奶作为恢复辅助手段的效果。十名男性攀岩者(年龄:22±1岁;身高:178.5±7.9厘米;体重:74.7±11.3千克)攀爬一面特德瓦尔墙(布鲁尔岩架M6级)直至自主力竭。参与者在攀爬结束20分钟后饮用白水或巧克力牛奶,然后在晚餐时再次饮用。在首次攀爬24小时后重复该运动方案。第二次实验条件在7天后完成。记录心率、主观用力程度分级(RPE)、血乳酸和肌肉酸痛评分等工作负荷指标,以及攀爬持续时间和距离等攀岩表现指标。结果发现,饮用巧克力牛奶后表现有所改善,攀爬距离更长(F(1,9)=11.704,P=0.008),持续时间也更长(F(1,9)=10.922,P=0.009),攀爬结束时的心率或RPE没有差异。
饮用巧克力牛奶后,运动三天后的肌肉酸痛评分更低(t(8)=3.773,P=0.005)。与白水相比,巧克力牛奶作为恢复饮品能带来更持久的攀爬表现,并减轻肌肉酸痛。攀岩者在多次攀爬回合中可考虑将其用作恢复辅助手段。巧克力牛奶作为一种相对未被充分研究的恢复辅助手段,值得进一步关注。