Int J Sports Physiol Perform. 2020 Feb 1;15(2):168-179. doi: 10.1123/ijspp.2018-0901. Epub 2019 Oct 14.
Rock climbing performance relies on many characteristics. Herein, the authors identified the physical and physiological determinants of peak performance in rock climbing across the range from lower grade to elite.
Forty four male and 33 female climbers with onsight maximal climbing grades 5a-8a and 5a-7b+, respectively, were tested for physical, physiological, and psychological characteristics (independent variables) that were correlated and modeled by multiple regression and principal component analysis to identify the determinants of rock climbing ability.
In males, 23 of 47 variables correlated with climbing ability (P < .05, Pearson correlation coefficients .773-.340), including shoulder endurance, hand and finger strength, shoulder power endurance, hip flexibility, lower-arm grip strength, shoulder power, upper-arm strength, core-body endurance, upper-body aerobic endurance, hamstrings and lower-back flexibility, aerobic endurance, and open-hand finger strength. In females, 10 of 47 variables correlated with climbing ability (P < .05, Pearson correlation coefficients .742-.482): shoulder endurance and power, lower-arm grip strength, balance, aerobic endurance, and arm span. Principal component analysis and univariate multiple regression identified the main explanatory variables. In both sexes, shoulder power and endurance measured as maximum pull-ups, average arm crank power, and bent-arm hang, emerged as the main determinants (P < .01; adjusted R2 = .77 in males and .62 in females). In males, finger pincer (P = .07) and grip strength also had trends (P = .09) toward significant effects. Finally, in test-of-principle training studies, they trained to increase main determinants 42% to 67%; this improved climbing ability 2 to 3 grades.
Shoulder power and endurance majorly determines maximal climbing. Finger, hand, and arm strength, core-body endurance, aerobic endurance, flexibility, and balance are important secondary determinants.
攀岩表现取决于许多特征。在此，作者确定了从低级别到精英级别的攀岩者的巅峰表现的身体和生理决定因素。
共有 44 名男性和 33 名女性攀岩者，他们的抱石最大攀爬等级分别为 5a-8a 和 5a-7b+，测试了与攀岩能力相关的身体、生理和心理特征（自变量），并通过多元回归和主成分分析进行建模，以确定攀岩能力的决定因素。
在男性中，47 个变量中有 23 个与攀爬能力相关（P <.05，Pearson 相关系数.773-.340），包括肩部耐力、手和手指力量、肩部力量耐力、臀部灵活性、前臂握力、肩部力量、上臂力量、核心耐力、上半身有氧耐力、腿筋和下背部灵活性、有氧耐力和张开手手指力量。在女性中，47 个变量中有 10 个与攀爬能力相关（P <.05，Pearson 相关系数.742-.482）：肩部耐力和力量、前臂握力、平衡、有氧耐力和臂展。主成分分析和单变量多元回归确定了主要解释变量。在两性中，作为最大引体向上、平均手臂曲柄力量和弯曲手臂悬挂的肩部力量和耐力，被证明是主要决定因素（P <.01；男性调整后的 R2 为.77，女性为.62）。在男性中，手指捏力（P =.07）和握力也有显著影响的趋势（P =.09）。最后，在原理验证训练研究中，他们进行了旨在提高主要决定因素 42%至 67%的训练；这使攀爬能力提高了 2 至 3 个等级。
肩部力量和耐力是最大程度决定攀岩表现的主要因素。手指、手和手臂力量、核心耐力、有氧耐力、灵活性和平衡是重要的次要决定因素。
