Hot Water Extract and Its Major Ingredient Hydrangenol Improve Skin Moisturization and Wrinkle Conditions via AP-1 and Akt/PI3K Pathway Upregulation.

is a plant grown in Korea and Japan with a particular natural compound, hydrangenol. has been researched for its anti-fungal properties, and ability to attenuate allergies and promote muscle growth. Its ability to reduce skin dryness is poorly understood. For that reason, we investigated whether hot water extracts (Hs-WE) can moisturize keratinocytes. In clinical studies (Approval Code: GIRB-21929-NY and approval Date: 5 October 2021), skin wrinkles and skin moisturizing levels were improved in subjects applying 0.5% Hs-WE compared to the placebo group. We confirmed the components of Hs-WE from the LC/MS-MS analysis. Hs-WE and hydrangenol did not show cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells at all concentrations. Cell growth was also promoted by Hs-WE (5-20 µg/mL) and hydrangenol (15-60 µM) in a wound healing assay. Skin moisturizing factors were upregulated by the presence of Hs-WE or hydrangenol, and the hyaluronidases (HYAL) were inhibited at the mRNA level. Meanwhile, COL1A1 was increased by the presence of Hs-WE or hydrangenol. MAPK, AP-1, and Akt/PI3k signaling proteins, which are associated with cell proliferation and moisturizing factors, were increased by the administration of Hs-WE and hydrangenol. Has-1, 2, and 3 levels were enhanced via JNK when using the inhibitors of MAPK proteins and Hs-WE and hydrangenol, respectively. Taken together, Hs-WE could be used as cosmeceutical materials for improving skin conditions.