Guangzhou Jiyan Cosmetics Technology Co., Ltd., Guangzhou 510275, China.
National Engineering Research Center for Nanomedicine, Huazhong University of Science and Technology, Wuhan 430075, China.
Molecules. 2023 Jul 7;28(13):5275. doi: 10.3390/molecules28135275.
Sensitive skin is defined as skin with low tolerance and high reactivity. Natural products, such as paeoniflorin and madecassoside, have unique skin care functionality. However, because they are hampered by the skin barrier, paeoniflorin and madecassoside have difficulty penetrating the stratum corneum, resulting in weakened skin barrier repair and anti-inflammatory effects. In addition, there is a lack of detailed studies on the efficacy of paeonol and madecassic in human skin, especially in 3D skin models and clinical trials. To overcome the low transdermal delivery issue, we developed nanoemulsions (PM-NEs) loaded with paeonol and madecassoside to improve their delivery efficiency and promote sensitive skin repair and anti-inflammation effects. Furthermore, systematic evaluations of the efficacy in cell line models, 3D skin models, and clinical trials were conducted. The PM-NEs effectively improved the efficacy of paeonol and madecassoside glucoside transdermal penetration and retention and enhanced cellular uptake. Cellular assays and 3D epidermal models showed that the PM-NEs significantly promoted the secretion of filamentous protein, aquaporin 3, Claudin-1, and hyaluronic acid, and considerably inhibited the secretion of interleukin 1α, interleukin 6, tumor necrosis factor-α, and prostaglandin E compared to free components. Notably, clinical trial data showed that the PM-NEs significantly reduced transepidermal water loss, a* values, erythropoietin, the amount of non-inflammatory acne, and the amount of inflammatory acne in the facial skin. Three levels of systematic studies suggest that co-delivery of paeoniflorin and madecassoside via nanoemulsions is a promising strategy to improve topical delivery efficiency and anti-inflammatory repair efficacy in sensitive skin.
敏感性皮肤定义为皮肤耐受性低、反应性高。天然产物如芍药苷和积雪草苷具有独特的皮肤护理功能。然而，由于受到皮肤屏障的限制，芍药苷和积雪草苷难以穿透角质层，导致皮肤屏障修复和抗炎作用减弱。此外，关于丹皮酚和积雪草苷在人体皮肤中的功效，特别是在 3D 皮肤模型和临床试验中，缺乏详细的研究。为了克服透皮传递效率低的问题，我们开发了负载丹皮酚和积雪草苷的纳米乳剂（PM-NEs），以提高它们的传递效率，促进敏感皮肤的修复和抗炎作用。此外，还对细胞系模型、3D 皮肤模型和临床试验中的功效进行了系统评价。PM-NEs 有效地改善了丹皮酚和积雪草苷糖苷的透皮渗透和保留效果，并增强了细胞摄取。细胞测定和 3D 表皮模型表明，与游离成分相比，PM-NEs 显著促进了丝状蛋白、水通道蛋白 3、Claudin-1 和透明质酸的分泌，显著抑制了白细胞介素 1α、白细胞介素 6、肿瘤坏死因子-α和前列腺素 E 的分泌。值得注意的是，临床试验数据表明，PM-NEs 显著降低了面部皮肤的经表皮水分流失、a*值、促红细胞生成素、非炎性痤疮数量和炎性痤疮数量。三个层次的系统研究表明，通过纳米乳剂共同传递丹皮酚和积雪草苷是提高局部传递效率和抗炎修复功效的一种有前途的策略。
