Lee Hyun-Young, Hong Kyunghi
Department of Clothing and Textiles, Kunsan National University, Kunsan, Jeollabuk-do, Korea.
Appl Ergon. 2007 May;38(3):377-84. doi: 10.1016/j.apergo.2006.03.014. Epub 2006 Jul 7.
It has been difficult to quantify the fit of brassiere wire to the natural nude under breast line due to the difficulty of obtaining women's nude under breast line in 3D image. The objectives of this study are firstly to design the ergonomic brassiere wire that should fit to the curve of under breast and thorax and secondly to apply the 3D measurement of human body structure to the product design and evaluation using phase shifting moiré topography. Eight brassiere wires were evaluated and key factors of comfortable wires were selected depending on the types of women's under breast those are considered as backbones of the brassiere structure. Twenty-one middle-aged women participated in the subjective wear test, and 17 volunteers of them continued to participate in the 3D image recording. 3D morphological data of the breast before and after wearing experimental brassiere was examined by phase shifting moiré topography. As results, it was found that the fitting of the global average radius of curvature of wire to that of the body line of the under breast curve was an important variable for the design of wires. Conventional shape of brassiere wire was suitable to the majority of the subjects. However, for those who have skewed under breast lines, the wire of larger global average radius of curvature along the inner part of the under breast line was rated higher in terms of wear comfort and appearance. The recommended magnitude of the torsional rigidity of the brassiere wire was about 0.015 N/mm2mm. The observation on women's under breast curve and their comfortable breast wire as discussed in this paper would provide with comfortable and stable fit for women in special needs such as soldiers, athletes and actress.
由于难以获取女性乳房下自然裸线的3D图像，因此很难量化胸罩钢丝与乳房下自然裸线的贴合度。本研究的目的，一是设计符合乳房下曲线和胸部曲线的人体工程学胸罩钢丝，二是将相移莫尔条纹形貌术应用于人体结构的3D测量，以进行产品设计和评估。对8种胸罩钢丝进行了评估，并根据被视为胸罩结构主干的女性乳房下类型，选择了舒适钢丝的关键因素。21名中年女性参与了主观穿着测试，其中17名志愿者继续参与3D图像记录。通过相移莫尔条纹形貌术检查了穿着实验胸罩前后乳房的3D形态数据。结果发现，钢丝的整体平均曲率半径与乳房下曲线身体线的整体平均曲率半径的拟合度，是钢丝设计的一个重要变量。传统形状的胸罩钢丝适合大多数受试者。然而，对于那些乳房下曲线倾斜的人来说，沿着乳房下曲线内侧具有较大整体平均曲率半径的钢丝，在穿着舒适度和外观方面的评分更高。胸罩钢丝的扭转刚度推荐值约为0.015N/mm2mm。本文所讨论的对女性乳房下曲线及其舒适胸罩钢丝的观察，将为士兵、运动员和女演员等有特殊需求 的女性提供舒适和稳定的贴合度。
