Montenegro L, Carbone C, Paolino D, Drago R, Stancampiano A H, Puglisi G
Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Catania, V.le A. Doria, 95125 Catania, Italy.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Feb;30(1):57-65. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00417.x.
The effects of different emulsifiers on the in vitro permeation through human skin of two sunscreen agents [octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM)] were investigated from O/W emulsions. The test formulations were prepared using the same oil and aqueous phase ingredients and the following emulsifier and coemulsifier systems: Emulgade SE((R)) (ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 and cetearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate) and glycerylmonostearate (emulsion 1); Brij 72((R)) (steareth-2), Brij 721((R)) (steareth-21) and cetearyl alcohol (emulsion 2); Phytocream((R)) (potassium palmitoyl-hydrolysed wheat protein and glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol) and glycerylmonostearate (emulsion 3); Montanov 68((R)) (cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol) (emulsion 4); Xalifin-15((R)) (C(15-20) acid PEG-8 ester) and cetearyl alcohol (emulsion 5). The cumulative amount of OMC that permeated in vitro through human skin after 22 h from the formulations being tested decreased in the order 3 > 1 congruent with 4 > 5 > 2 and was about nine-fold higher from emulsion 3 compared with that from emulsion 2. As regards BMBM, no significant difference was observed as regards its skin permeation from emulsions 1, 3, 4 and 5, whereas formulation 2 allowed significantly lower amounts of BMBM to permeate the skin. In vitro release experiments of OMC and BMBM from emulsions 1-6 through cellulose acetate membranes showed that only emulsions 4 and 5 provided pseudo-first-order release rates only for OMC. The results of this study suggest that the type of emulsifying systems used to prepare an O/W emulsion may strongly affect sunscreen skin permeation from these formulations. Therefore, the vehicle effects should be carefully considered in the formulation of sunscreen products.
研究了不同乳化剂对两种防晒剂[桂皮酸盐(OMC)和丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷(BMBM)]从O/W乳液体外透过人体皮肤的影响。测试配方使用相同的油相和水相成分以及以下乳化剂和助乳化剂体系制备:乳化剂SE(R)(鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-12、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20、鲸蜡硬脂醇和十六烷基棕榈酸酯)和单硬脂酸甘油酯(乳液1);Brij 72(R)(硬脂醇聚醚-2)、Brij 721(R)(硬脂醇聚醚-21)和鲸蜡硬脂醇(乳液2);植物乳膏(R)(棕榈酰水解小麦蛋白钾、硬脂酸甘油酯和鲸蜡硬脂醇)和单硬脂酸甘油酯(乳液3);Montanov 68(R)(鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷和鲸蜡硬脂醇)(乳液4);Xalifin-15(R)(C(15 - 20)酸PEG - 8酯)和鲸蜡硬脂醇(乳液5)。测试配方在22小时后体外透过人体皮肤的OMC累积量按3>1≈4>5>2的顺序降低,乳液3的累积量比乳液2高约9倍。至于BMBM,乳液1、3、4和5的皮肤渗透量无显著差异,而配方2允许渗透皮肤的BMBM量显著更低。OMC和BMBM从乳液1 - 6通过醋酸纤维素膜的体外释放实验表明,只有乳液4和5仅对OMC提供伪一级释放速率。本研究结果表明,用于制备O/W乳液的乳化体系类型可能强烈影响这些配方中防晒剂的皮肤渗透。因此,在防晒产品配方中应仔细考虑载体效应。
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