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“偏心”分子

'Escentric' molecules.

作者信息

Schön Geza

出版信息

Chem Biodivers. 2008 Jun;5(6):1154-8. doi: 10.1002/cbdv.200890092.

Abstract

Can a fragrance be revolutionary? In this commentary, the creation of two unusual, extravagant fine fragrances, 'escentric01' and 'molecule01', is described. In response to the fantasy components found in release notes of many recent perfume launches, both center around a single real fragrance raw material, the transparent woody aroma chemical 'Iso E Super' (1+2). The perfume 'escentric01' contains 65% of it, accompanied by Trisamber (3), red pepper, lime oil, incense and musks, while 'molecule01' consists exclusively of 'Iso E Super' (1+2). The elegant woody note lives here its own eccentric life--the revolution starts.

摘要

一款香水能具有革命性吗?在这篇评论中,描述了两款不同寻常、奢华的高级香水“escentric01”和“molecule01”的创作过程。针对近期许多香水新品香调注释中出现的奇幻成分,这两款香水均围绕单一真实的香料原料——具有透明木质香气的化学物质“异甲基紫罗兰酮”(1+2)展开。香水“escentric01”含有65%的该物质,并伴有三香豆素(3)、红辣椒、青柠油、焚香和麝香,而“molecule01”则仅由“异甲基紫罗兰酮”(1+2)构成。这种优雅的木质调在这里展现出独特的个性——革命由此开始。

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