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有色头发中铜和钙的摄取

Copper and calcium uptake in colored hair.

作者信息

Smart K E, Kilburn M, Schroeder M, Martin B G H, Hawes C, Marsh J M, Grovenor C R M

机构信息

Department of Materials, University of Oxford, Parks Road, Oxford, OX1 3PH, UK.

出版信息

J Cosmet Sci. 2009 May-Jun;60(3):337-45.

Abstract

During hair coloring a number of disulfide bonds in cystine are oxidized (1) to create cysteic acid, forming binding sites for metal ions such as Ca(2+ )and Cu(2+ )from tap water (2). The increased uptake of these metals can have a detrimental impact on fiber properties-for example, reducing shine and causing a poor wet and dry feel (3). In addition, the increased uptake of copper can also contribute to further fiber damage during subsequent coloring due to its ability to take part in metal-induced radical chemistry (4). It is important to know where in the fibers these metals are located in order to either effectively remove these metals or control their chemistry. Nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry (NanoSIMS) has been used to locate the calcium and copper within hair that has been treated with a colorant and washed multiple times in tap water containing these ions. Untreated hair is used as a baseline standard material. Images with up to 50-nm spatial resolution of the preferential locations of calcium uptake were obtained, showing a high concentration of calcium in the cuticle region of colored hair, specifically in the sulfur-rich regions (A-layer and exocuticle).

摘要

染发过程中,胱氨酸中的一些二硫键被氧化(1)生成半胱磺酸,形成与自来水中的钙(Ca²⁺)和铜(Cu²⁺)等金属离子的结合位点(2)。这些金属摄取量的增加会对纤维性能产生不利影响,例如降低光泽并导致干湿手感不佳(3)。此外,铜摄取量的增加还会由于其参与金属诱导的自由基化学反应的能力而在后续染发过程中导致纤维进一步受损(4)。了解这些金属在纤维中的位置对于有效去除这些金属或控制其化学反应非常重要。纳米级二次离子质谱(NanoSIMS)已被用于定位用染发剂处理过并在含有这些离子的自来水中多次清洗后的头发中的钙和铜。未处理的头发用作基线标准材料。获得了钙摄取优先位置的高达50纳米空间分辨率的图像,显示染色头发的角质层区域,特别是在富含硫的区域(A层和外表皮)中钙的浓度很高。

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