Obladen Michael
J Perinat Med. 2014 Sep;42(5):641-7. doi: 10.1515/jpm-2013-0288.
This article traces the decline of milk from a heavenly elixir to a tradeable food. Early cultures regarded milk not as a simple nutrient, but a living fluid. Heroes and gods were believed to have been nurtured by animals after being abandoned. Character traits were assumed to be transmitted by milk; infantile diseases were attributed to "bad milk", whereas "good milk" was used as a remedy. With chemical methods developed at the end of the 18th century, it became known that human milk was higher in sugar and lower in protein than cow's milk. During the 19th century, "scientific" feeding emerged that meant modifying cow's milk to imitate the proportion of nutrients in human milk. In Boston from 1893, Rotch initiated the "percentage" method, requiring a physician's prescription. In Paris from 1894, Budin sterilized bottled infant milk. In Berlin in 1898, Rubner measured oxygen and energy uptake by calorimetry, prompting feeding by calories, and Czerny introduced regulated feeding by the clock. These activities ignored the emotional dimension of infant nutrition and the anti-infective properties of human milk. They may have also enhanced the decline in breastfeeding, which reached an all-time low in 1971. Milk's demystification made artificial nutrition safer, but paved the way for commercially produced infant formula.
本文追溯了牛奶从天赐神药沦为可交易食品的衰落历程。早期文化并不将牛奶视为一种简单的营养物质,而是一种有生命的液体。人们相信英雄和神明在被遗弃后曾由动物哺育长大。性格特质被认为是由牛奶传递的;婴儿疾病被归咎于“坏牛奶”,而“好牛奶”则被用作治疗手段。随着18世纪末化学方法的发展,人们了解到母乳的糖分含量高于牛奶,而蛋白质含量低于牛奶。在19世纪,出现了“科学”喂养方式,即调整牛奶成分以模仿母乳中的营养比例。1893年在波士顿,罗奇开创了“百分比”法,需要医生开处方。1894年在巴黎,布丁对瓶装婴儿牛奶进行了消毒。1898年在柏林,鲁布纳通过量热法测量了氧气和能量摄取量,促使按卡路里喂养,而策尔尼引入了定时定量喂养。这些活动忽视了婴儿营养中的情感因素以及母乳的抗感染特性。它们可能还加剧了母乳喂养率的下降,母乳喂养率在1971年降至历史最低点。牛奶的祛魅使人工营养更安全,但也为商业生产的婴儿配方奶粉铺平了道路。