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用于理解皮肤机械行为和化妆品配方设计的线性粘弹性模型。

A linear viscoelastic model to understand skin mechanical behaviour and for cosmetic formulation design.

机构信息

Physical Science Research Area, Tata Research Development and Design Centre, TCS Research, Tata Consultancy Services 54B, Hadapsar Industrial Estate, Pune, 411013, India.

出版信息

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019 Jun;41(3):292-299. doi: 10.1111/ics.12535. Epub 2019 May 26.

Abstract

OBJECTIVES

Skin is arguably one of the most important organs that plays an active role in our everyday biological functions after brain. Owing to the wide range of applications in medicine, cosmetics industry and more recently robotics, skin research has gained tremendous attention with respect to its mechanical behaviour. Various macro modelling approaches are available for modelling skin's mechanical behaviour. The objective of this paper is to study skin's mechanical property change with age and demonstrate anti-ageing effects of cosmetic formulations from skin mechanical property change perspective.

METHODS

In this study, skin's mechanical behaviour was modelled using a 1D linear viscoelastic phenomenological model and the model was validated using two sets of experimentally observed skin data (strain, stress relaxation and cyclical loading). The model was further modified to study the effect of the presence of a thin layer of cosmetic polymer and to demonstrate anti-ageing effects of the cosmetic polymer from the perspective of change in the mechanical behaviour of skin with cosmetic layer.

RESULTS

The estimated values of skin mechanical properties from the model agree with those in literature. The extracted model features show good correlation with skin age (viscosity and time constant). The results from our model indicate that the cosmetic polymers enhance the mechanical properties of skin significantly.

CONCLUSIONS

This work will find its applications in designing and testing anti-ageing formulations. This model can be used to filter various combinations of cosmetic formulations by knowing the mechanical response of polymer on skin, thereby accelerating the product development.

摘要

目的

皮肤可以说是在大脑之后对我们日常生物功能起积极作用的最重要器官之一。由于在医学、化妆品行业以及最近的机器人技术等领域的广泛应用,皮肤的机械性能研究得到了极大的关注。有各种宏观建模方法可用于模拟皮肤的机械性能。本文的目的是研究皮肤随年龄变化的机械性能变化,并从皮肤机械性能变化的角度展示化妆品配方的抗衰老效果。

方法

在这项研究中,使用一维线性粘弹性唯象模型来模拟皮肤的机械性能,并用两组实验观察到的皮肤数据(应变、应力松弛和循环加载)对模型进行了验证。进一步修改了该模型,以研究存在薄的化妆品聚合物层的效果,并从皮肤与化妆品层的机械性能变化的角度展示化妆品聚合物的抗衰老效果。

结果

模型估计的皮肤机械性能值与文献中的值一致。提取的模型特征与皮肤年龄(粘度和时间常数)具有良好的相关性。我们模型的结果表明,化妆品聚合物可显著增强皮肤的机械性能。

结论

这项工作将在设计和测试抗衰老配方方面得到应用。通过了解聚合物对皮肤的机械响应,该模型可用于筛选各种化妆品配方的组合,从而加速产品开发。

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