Sargsyan L, Vill V, Hippe T
R&D Hair Color Level 3, Henkel AG & Co KGaA, Hohenzollernring 125-127, Hamburg, 22763, Germany.
Department of Chemistry, University of Hamburg, Bundesstrasse 45, Hamburg, 20146, Germany.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Aug;42(4):320-327. doi: 10.1111/ics.12624. Epub 2020 Jul 8.
The aim of this work was to investigate an alternative hair-dyeing method with vegetable colourants as the tannins, as well as the impact of pre-treatment as the bleaching process.
Untreated, 1, 2 and 3 times bleached hair tresses that were dyed with tannins in combination with metal salts were characterized. The wash fastness and the colour strength of the vegetable-dyed hair tresses were spectrophotometrically investigated.
To determine the colour strength KS and the wash fastness of vegetable-dyed and pre-bleached hair tresses, a three-dimensional colour coordinate system - CIELab - which describes the visual spectra is used. The distance between two colours in the CIELab colour space is expressed by ∆E-values, which are used to identify the wash fastness of the vegetable dye. The hair tresses that had been 3 times pre-bleached showed the highest colour strength and the best wash fastness. The fixation of the tannin-mordant complexes on the hair fibre proceeded effectively just when the hair tresses were bleached before the dying process. It is suggested that the sulphonic acid groups, which increase after bleaching hair, interact with the tannin-mordant hair dye and lead to stronger cross-links between keratinous fibres and tannin-mordant complexes. It was observed that the colour strength of the vegetable-dyed tresses correlates with the bleaching process.
The presented results demonstrate that the fixation of the vegetable tannin-mordant dying solution on the hair fibres succeed effectively on pre-bleached hair tresses.
本研究旨在探究一种以植物色素(单宁)为原料的染发方法,并研究预处理(如漂白过程)的影响。
对未经处理、经过1次、2次和3次漂白的发束用单宁与金属盐进行染色,并对其进行表征。采用分光光度法研究植物染色发束的耐洗牢度和色强度。
为了确定植物染色和预漂白发束的色强度KS和耐洗牢度,使用了描述视觉光谱的三维颜色坐标系——CIELab。CIELab颜色空间中两种颜色之间的距离用∆E值表示,用于确定植物染料的耐洗牢度。经过3次预漂白的发束显示出最高的色强度和最佳的耐洗牢度。单宁 - 媒染剂复合物在头发纤维上的固定仅在染发前对发束进行漂白时才有效进行。建议在头发漂白后增加的磺酸基团与单宁 - 媒染剂染发剂相互作用,并导致角蛋白纤维与单宁 - 媒染剂复合物之间形成更强的交联。观察到植物染色发束的色强度与漂白过程相关。
研究结果表明,植物单宁 - 媒染剂染液在预漂白的发束上能有效地固定在头发纤维上。