School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Department of Pharmacy, University of Sao Paulo, Avenida Professor Lineu Prestes 508, Butantan, Sao Paulo, Brazil.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Apr;43(2):136-143. doi: 10.1111/ics.12667. Epub 2020 Dec 13.
Cosmetic and dermatological products, mainly the hair treatments, are projected to have remarkable growing in coming years. Nanotechnology, specifically nanoemulsions, has potential to be used in several hair products, owing to their beneficial properties. Concurrently, plant-derived cosmetics have become more popular over the years to consumers who prefer a safer, natural and sustainable approach. There is a lack of studies combining plant oils and nanotechnology for haircare formulations. In this work, different plant oil-loaded nanoemulsions were prepared to investigate the influence of their particle size, zeta potential and composition on hair treatment efficacy.
Coconut, olive and Abyssinian oils, alone or in combination, were loaded into nanoemulsions by high-pressure homogenization method (HPH). The mean particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential were measured by the dynamic light scattering (DLS) method, and a stability test was performed for five months. A sensorial screening evaluation performed by the analyst and the combing test using Dia-Stron instrumentation were applied on hair tresses treated by these nanoemulsions.
The use of different plant oils for nanoemulsion resulted in distinct final particle sizes and zeta potential. However, results suggested no significant difference between them in hair tresses combing efficacy compared by Dia-Stron instrument testing. Moreover, the plant-loaded nanoemulsions with increased concentration of cationic surfactant indicated a 50% reduction in combing force using this device when compared to control, in addition to better sensory results by screening test compared to other nanoemulsions and control.
The composition of plant oils, particle size or zeta potential of the prepared nanoemulsions does not seem to significantly influence hair performance. Thus, we suggest that finding the right balance between cationic surfactant and plant oils may be the most appropriate path to develop effective nanoemulsions in hair treatment.
化妆品和皮肤科产品,主要是头发处理产品,预计在未来几年将有显著增长。纳米技术,特别是纳米乳液,由于其有益的特性,有可能被应用于几种头发产品中。与此同时,植物衍生的化妆品近年来在消费者中变得越来越受欢迎,他们更喜欢更安全、更天然和更可持续的方法。将植物油与纳米技术结合用于护发配方的研究还很少。在这项工作中,制备了不同的植物油负载纳米乳液,以研究其粒径、Zeta 电位和组成对头发处理效果的影响。
通过高压均质法(HPH)将椰子油、橄榄油和阿比西尼亚油单独或组合加载到纳米乳液中。通过动态光散射(DLS)法测量平均粒径、多分散指数和 Zeta 电位,并进行了五个月的稳定性测试。对头发假发进行了分析师进行的感官筛选评估和 Dia-Stron 仪器进行的梳理测试。
不同植物油用于纳米乳液的使用导致最终粒径和 Zeta 电位明显不同。然而,结果表明,与 Dia-Stron 仪器测试相比,它们在头发假发梳理效果方面没有显著差异。此外,与对照相比,用该设备测试时,载有植物的纳米乳液中阳离子表面活性剂浓度增加表明梳理力降低了 50%,并且与其他纳米乳液和对照相比,通过筛选测试获得了更好的感官结果。
制备的纳米乳液中植物油的组成、粒径或 Zeta 电位似乎不会显著影响头发性能。因此,我们建议在阳离子表面活性剂和植物油之间找到正确的平衡可能是开发头发处理有效纳米乳液的最合适途径。