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探究法澳家庭用餐中不平等的阶级饮食社会化逻辑。一项民族志研究

Exploring unequal class logics of mealtime food socialisation. An ethnography of family meals in France and Australia.

机构信息

College of Nursing and Health Sciences of Flinders University, Australia; Centre Max Weber UM5283, France; Institut Paul Bocuse Research Centre, France.

Institut Paul Bocuse Research Centre, France.

出版信息

Appetite. 2024 Apr 1;195:107195. doi: 10.1016/j.appet.2023.107195. Epub 2023 Dec 29.

DOI:10.1016/j.appet.2023.107195
PMID:38160732
Abstract

Regular family mealtimes are occasions to model food consumption and have been associated with health and well-being benefits for children. This study aimed to investigate children's mealtime food socialisation in socially diverse households. Nine families from France and five from Australia were recruited, ranging from lower middle-class to upper-class positions, with children mostly between the ages of five to eight. The data is composed of the observations of 47 mealtimes and semi-directive interviews with both parents. The results showed that food socialisation and parents' understanding of children's taste development were linked to the household's social class position as well as to the temporal, cognitive and emotional resources parents possessed at mealtimes, in a similar manner across France and Australia. The more capital and resources the parents had, the more they were able to perform an intensive food socialisation style, which led them to prepare balanced menus and get children to eat the food served. The less capital and resources the parents had, the more they engaged in a hands-off food socialisation style, leading them to serve more child-oriented and less diverse menus. Importantly, all parents strived to serve healthy food, but limited resources prevented some of them from doing so. These food socialisation styles were also connected to the development of different social skills in children: with the intensive model, children were closely managed by their parents at the table but also learnt negotiation skills, whereas with the hands-off style, children learnt to be quite autonomous in their eating. The findings presented here contribute to Hays' intensive mothering concept and to Lareau's class-based parenting models. They also challenge Bourdieu's differentiation between a taste of necessity and a taste of luxury.

摘要

定期的家庭用餐时间是进行食物消费教育的机会,已被证明对儿童的健康和幸福有益。本研究旨在调查社会多样化家庭中儿童的用餐时间的食物社会化情况。从法国招募了 9 个家庭,从澳大利亚招募了 5 个家庭,家庭收入从中产阶层到上层阶层不等,孩子年龄大多在 5 到 8 岁之间。数据由 47 次用餐时间的观察和对父母双方的半结构化访谈组成。结果表明,食物社会化和父母对孩子味觉发展的理解与家庭的社会阶层地位以及父母在用餐时拥有的时间、认知和情感资源有关,这种模式在法国和澳大利亚都很相似。父母拥有的资本和资源越多,他们就能采用更密集的食物社会化方式,这使他们能够准备均衡的菜单,并让孩子吃所提供的食物。父母拥有的资本和资源越少,他们就越倾向于采用放任自流的食物社会化方式,这导致他们提供更面向孩子且种类较少的菜单。重要的是,所有父母都努力提供健康的食物,但有限的资源使他们中的一些人无法做到这一点。这些食物社会化方式也与儿童不同社交技能的发展有关:在密集型模式下,父母在餐桌上密切管理孩子,但也让孩子学会谈判技巧,而在放任自流的模式下,孩子学会在吃饭时非常自主。这里提出的研究结果有助于理解海斯的密集型育儿概念和拉劳的基于阶层的育儿模式。它们还挑战了布迪厄关于必需品品味和奢侈品品味之间的区别。

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