Urvieta Roy, Heymann Hildegarde, Cantu Annegret, Catania Aníbal, Buscema Fernando, Bottini Rubén, Fontana Ariel
Grupo de Bioquímica Vegetal, Instituto de Biología Agrícola de Mendoza CONICET-UNCuyo, Almirante Brown 500, Chacras de Coria, Mendoza, M5507, Argentina.
Catena Institute of Wine, Bodega Catena Zapata, Cobos s/n, Agrelo, M5509, Argentina.
NPJ Sci Food. 2024 Feb 21;8(1):14. doi: 10.1038/s41538-024-00252-3.
The study of terroir, increasingly popular in scientific circles, remains a challenging field, particularly in terms of sensory analysis. This paper summarizes our own contribution to the field-an approach for tracing the typicity of wines by sensometrics, using the Malbec variety as a case study. This large-scale research fingerprinted 81 wines from 29 parcels from highly contrasting environments (varying climate, elevation, and soils), produced under standardized conditions in three consecutive vintages. Wines were evaluated through descriptive sensory analysis (DA) by a trained panel, and sensory descriptors were associated with different size geographic scales (zones, departments, and Geographic Indications (GIs)). The application of different sensometric tools allowed us to describe the typicity of wines and discriminate each region, proposing a novel methodology for the comprehensive evaluation of terroir from a sensory viewpoint. The vintage effect was very strong at the departmental and GI level, with aroma, taste and mouthfeel descriptors varying annually. However, certain origin descriptors remained consistent, providing insight into the typicity of Malbec. Considering the extension of the experimental study performed, this methodology provides a proof of concept for understanding both terroir and vintage effects from a sensorial perspective, offering wine producers and consumers a clear message backed by scientific evidence.
风土研究在科学界越来越受欢迎,但仍然是一个具有挑战性的领域,尤其是在感官分析方面。本文总结了我们在该领域的贡献——一种通过感官计量学追踪葡萄酒典型性的方法,以马尔贝克品种为例进行研究。这项大规模研究对来自29个地块的81款葡萄酒进行了指纹识别,这些地块环境差异很大(气候、海拔和土壤各不相同),在连续三个年份的标准化条件下生产。由经过培训的专业小组通过描述性感官分析(DA)对葡萄酒进行评估,并将感官描述符与不同规模的地理区域(地区、部门和地理标志(GI))相关联。不同感官计量工具的应用使我们能够描述葡萄酒的典型性并区分每个地区,从而提出了一种从感官角度全面评估风土的新方法。年份效应在部门和地理标志层面非常明显,香气、口感和质地描述符每年都有所不同。然而,某些产地描述符保持一致,有助于深入了解马尔贝克的典型性。考虑到所进行的实验研究范围,该方法从感官角度为理解风土和年份效应提供了概念验证,为葡萄酒生产商和消费者提供了有科学依据的明确信息。