Characterization and evaluation of Achillea erba-rotta subsp. moschata (Wulfen) I. Richardson and Achillea millefolium L. as potential ingredients for skin applications.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Despite their different geographical distribution Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea erba-rotta subsp. moschata (Wulfen) I. Richardson are characterized by a consolidated traditional knowledge. Although this is not their first traditional use, they have also long been used as ingredients for skin healing and skin care.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The aim of this work was to characterize the two Achillea species from a chemical and biomolecular point of view in order to find a simple tool for their discrimination. At the same time, the biological activity of the extracts as inhibitors of the enzymes tyrosinase and elastase and as antimicrobial agents was evaluated.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The biomolecular analysis was performed on the DNA region trnL-F. The hydroalcholic (EtOH50 %) extracts were quali-quantitatively characterized by HPLC-PDA-MS/MS and tested for their inhibitory effect on the enzymes tyrosinase and elastase as well as for their antimicrobial activity. Cytotoxicity towards human fibroblasts was tested to evaluate their safety for potential applications.

RESULTS

Restriction Fragment Length Polymorphism (RFLP) analysis of the trnL-F DNA region was a useful tool for species discrimination. Both extracts are rich in polyphenols and showed moderate tyrosinase (26-5 %) and elastase (22-14 %) inhibitory activity at 17 μg/mL. They were also able to inhibit the growth of the bacteria and yeasts studied, generally exhibiting cytotoxicity to human fibroblasts at concentrations of 500 μg/mL or higher.

CONCLUSIONS

The hydroalcoholic extracts from the aerial parts of A. millefolium and A. erba-rotta subsp. moschata can be considered good candidates for the cosmetic and health sectors, also supporting the traditional use of these species in the treatment of skin diseases.