Rangarajan M, Zatz J L
Rutgers State University of New Jersey, Department of Pharmaceutics, College of Pharmacy, 160 Frelinghuysen Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854-8020, USA.
J Cosmet Sci. 2001 Jan-Feb;52(1):35-50.
The objective of this research was to investigate the permeation and metabolism of alpha-tocopheryl acetate (alpha-TAc) and alpha-tocopherol (alpha-T) from solution and emulsion formulations and to delineate the kinetics of such metabolism. Simple formulations containing alpha-TAc and alpha-T were applied to fresh, viable micro-Yucatan skin dermatomed to a thickness of 250-300 microns, as a finite dose in a flow-through diffusion system. The experiments were stopped at time intervals of 2, 6, 12, and 24 hours. At the end of each time interval, the amounts removed by washing, retained in the stratum corneum (SC), and penetrated into the viable skin and receptor were determined by a validated HPLC method. Receptor concentrations were below the limit of detection. alpha-TAc underwent metabolism in pig skin to the active antioxidant alpha-T. The metabolite appeared as early as two hours after application. The extent of metabolism was highest at 6-12 hours after application. No metabolism was detected in the stratum corneum. Delivery of alpha-T from isopropyl myristate (IPM) solution was more efficient than utilization of alpha-TAc from the same solution. Approximately 1.5% of alpha-T yielded the same viable skin concentration as 5% alpha-TAc. Topical application of alpha-tocopherol or its prodrug acetate was capable of enhancing the overall antioxidant capacity of pig skin. The hydrolytic pathway of alpha-TAc leading to the active antioxidant alpha-T could possibly be saturable.
本研究的目的是研究醋酸生育酚(α-TAc)和生育酚(α-T)在溶液和乳剂配方中的渗透和代谢情况,并描述这种代谢的动力学。将含有α-TAc和α-T的简单配方作为有限剂量,应用于新鲜、有活力的、厚度为250 - 300微米的尤卡坦微型皮肤,置于流通扩散系统中。实验在2、6、12和24小时的时间间隔停止。在每个时间间隔结束时,通过经过验证的高效液相色谱法测定通过洗涤去除的量、保留在角质层(SC)中的量以及渗透到有活力皮肤和受体中的量。受体浓度低于检测限。α-TAc在猪皮肤中代谢为活性抗氧化剂α-T。代谢产物在应用后两小时就出现了。代谢程度在应用后6 - 12小时最高。在角质层中未检测到代谢。从肉豆蔻酸异丙酯(IPM)溶液中递送α-T比从相同溶液中利用α-TAc更有效。大约1.5%的α-T产生的有活力皮肤浓度与5%的α-TAc相同。局部应用生育酚或其前体醋酸酯能够提高猪皮肤的整体抗氧化能力。α-TAc导致活性抗氧化剂α-T的水解途径可能是可饱和的。