Nair Bindu, Elmore Amy R
Int J Toxicol. 2002;21 Suppl 1:81-91. doi: 10.1080/10915810290096405.
Various proteins, lipids, or other extracts from human or other animal placentas are described as cosmetic ingredients. Human Placental Protein comprises protein derived from human placentas. Placental Protein is derived from animal placentas. Similarly, Human Placental Lipids and Placental Lipids are the lipid fractions from the same source materials. Hydrolyzed Human Placental Protein and Hydrolyzed Placental Protein are produced from the respective protein extracts by acid, enzyme, or other hydrolysis methods. Human Placental Enzymes and Placental Enzymes are enzymes obtained by aqueous extraction of human or other animal placental material. Human Umbilical Extract and Umbilical Extract are unspecified extracts of material from human or other animal umbilical cords. Different materials called Human Placental Extracts and Placental Extracts, assumed to contain estrogenic hormones or other biologically active substances, are not recognized as cosmetic ingredients, even though the use of these ingredients in cosmetics have been reported to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Human-derived ingredients are prohibited from use under the provisions of the European Union cosmetics directive based on concerns about transmission of human spongiform encephalopathies and viral diseases, for example, human immunodeficiency virus (HIV). Umbilical Extract has precedent for unrestricted use in Japan, except for certain products. Most of these ingredients are described as hair-conditioning agents and miscellaneous skin-conditioning agents, although the umbilical extracts function as biological additives in cosmetics. Of the human-derived ingredients, only Human Placental Protein is currently reported to be used. Animal-derived placental proteins, hydrolyzed proteins, lipids, and enzymes were all currently reported to be used. No current uses of the umbilical extracts were reported. Most of the available data relates to placental derivatives that appear to have estrogenic or other biological activity. The one clinical study that appears to utilize proteinaceous material only reported no irritant reaction. Clearly, the available data are insufficient to support safety of these ingredients in cosmetics. The additional data needed include (1) skin sensitization at concentration of use; (2) gross pathology and histopathology in skin and other major organ systems associated with repeated exposures, and dermal reproductive and developmental toxicity data; (3) photosensitization; (4) one genotoxicity assay in a mammalian system; if positive, then a 2-year dermal carcinogenicity study using National Toxicology Program (NTP) methods may be needed; (5) ocular toxicity, if available. Any studies should be done on all ingredients unless chemical analysis data show similarity among ingredients. Because there is confusion and concern about the use of substances with estrogenic or other biological activity in cosmetic formulations, it was concluded that none of these ingredients used in cosmetics should deliver any metabolic/endocrine activity. In addition, any current use of these ingredients should be free of detectable pathogenic viruses or infectious agents.
各种从人或其他动物胎盘中提取的蛋白质、脂质或其他提取物被描述为化妆品成分。人胎盘蛋白包含源自人胎盘的蛋白质。胎盘蛋白源自动物胎盘。同样,人胎盘脂质和胎盘脂质是来自相同原料的脂质部分。水解人胎盘蛋白和水解胎盘蛋白是通过酸、酶或其他水解方法从各自的蛋白质提取物中制得的。人胎盘酶和胎盘酶是通过对人或其他动物胎盘材料进行水提取而获得的酶。人脐带提取物和脐带提取物是来自人或其他动物脐带的未明确提取物。不同的被称为人胎盘提取物和胎盘提取物的物质,被认为含有雌激素或其他生物活性物质,即使这些成分在化妆品中的使用已向美国食品药品监督管理局(FDA)报告,但仍未被认可为化妆品成分。基于对人类海绵状脑病和病毒性疾病传播的担忧,例如人类免疫缺陷病毒(HIV),欧盟化妆品指令规定禁止使用源自人类的成分。脐带提取物在日本除某些产品外有不受限制使用的先例。这些成分大多被描述为头发调理剂和其他皮肤调理剂,尽管脐带提取物在化妆品中起生物添加剂的作用。在源自人类的成分中,目前仅报告有人胎盘蛋白被使用。目前报告动物源的胎盘蛋白、水解蛋白、脂质和酶均有使用。未报告目前有使用脐带提取物的情况。现有的大多数数据涉及似乎具有雌激素或其他生物活性的胎盘衍生物。一项似乎仅使用蛋白质类物质的临床研究仅报告无刺激反应。显然,现有数据不足以支持这些成分在化妆品中的安全性。所需的额外数据包括:(1)使用浓度下的皮肤致敏情况;(2)与重复暴露相关的皮肤和其他主要器官系统的大体病理学和组织病理学,以及皮肤生殖和发育毒性数据;(3)光致敏情况;(4)一项哺乳动物系统中的遗传毒性试验;如果结果为阳性,则可能需要使用美国国家毒理学计划(NTP)方法进行为期两年的皮肤致癌性研究;(5)眼部毒性(如有)。除非化学分析数据显示成分之间相似,否则应对所有成分进行任何研究。由于在化妆品配方中使用具有雌激素或其他生物活性的物质存在混乱和担忧,得出的结论是,化妆品中使用的这些成分均不应具有任何代谢/内分泌活性。此外,这些成分的任何当前用途均应不含可检测到的致病病毒或传染源。