Quaine Franck, Vigouroux Laurent, Martin Luc
EA 597, UFR APS, Université, Joseph Fourier, 1741 rue de la Piscine, BP 53 x, 38041 Grenoble cedex 9, France.
Clin Biomech (Bristol). 2003 Jun;18(5):385-8. doi: 10.1016/s0268-0033(03)00045-7.
To study the forces applied by each finger in different joint postures simulating rock climbing gripping postures.
Subjects in sitting posture applied fingertip forces perpendicular to horizontal force sensors in three different finger postures.
Data provided by the literature indicate that middle and ring finger are commonly injured. However, no quantitative assessment of the forces applied by each finger related to the joint postures has been made.
Six elite rock climbers performed finger flexion in a single-finger task and a four-finger task. The tests were conducted in an extended posture, a curved posture (the joints belonging to the finger were flexed) and an intermediate posture (the joints were flexed, except the distal one which was fully extended). Each fingertip force was expressed in absolute value and in percentage of the maximal force capacity of the finger.
The greater force was applied by the middle finger (20.8 N), whatever the posture. The relative involvement amounted to 105% for the ring finger in the curved posture.
The great force applied by the middle finger and the great relative involvement of the ring finger in the curved posture seem to be the main factors of injuries of these fingers.
The analysis of force sharing among the fingers during different joint postures mimicking rock climbing is essential to a better understanding of finger injuries.
研究在模拟攀岩抓握姿势的不同关节姿势下各手指施加的力。
受试者坐姿，以三种不同手指姿势向水平力传感器垂直施加指尖力。
文献提供的数据表明，中指和无名指常受伤。然而，尚未对与关节姿势相关的各手指施加的力进行定量评估。
六名精英攀岩者在单指任务和四指任务中进行手指屈曲。测试在伸展姿势、弯曲姿势（手指所属关节屈曲）和中间姿势（关节屈曲，但远端关节完全伸展）下进行。每个指尖力以绝对值和手指最大力容量的百分比表示。
无论姿势如何，中指施加的力更大（20.8 N）。在弯曲姿势下，无名指的相对参与度达105%。
中指施加的大力以及无名指在弯曲姿势下的高相对参与度似乎是这些手指受伤的主要因素。
分析模拟攀岩时不同关节姿势下手指间的力分配对于更好地理解手指损伤至关重要。
