Edison Brenda L, Green Barbara A, Wildnauer Richard H, Sigler Monya L
NeoStrata Company, Inc, Princeton, New Jersey, USA.
Cutis. 2004 Feb;73(2 Suppl):14-7.
There have been numerous clinical studies conducted to evaluate the beneficial effects of the polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in skincare. Although there is significant evidence that PHAs provide antiaging effects to skin, a direct comparison between alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs) and PHAs for these effects has not been conducted. This 12-week clinical study evaluated gluconolactone-containing products (PHAs) in comparison with glycolic acid-containing products (AHAs). Clinical grading of photoaging, as well as objective and subjective irritation, was conducted on the face at baseline and after 6 and 12 weeks of product use. Pinch recoil, silicone replicas of the crow's-feet area, and self-assessment of product efficacy and tolerance were also collected. Both regimens showed significant antiaging benefits to skin as measured by silicone replicas, clinical grading, and pinch recoil for skin resiliency. There were only 2 statistically significant (P < .05) differences between the regimens in antiaging benefits: (1) sallowness showed greater improvement with AHA use at week 12 only (AHA, 17. 1%; PHA, 12.4%), and (2) pinch recoil showed greater improvement with AHA use at week 12 only (AHA, 13.5%; PHA, 10.2%). Irritation grading and subject self-assessment showed that the PHA regimen was better tolerated than the AHA regimen. Stinging and burning were significantly worse for subjects in the AHA treatment group at both week 6 and 12, and degree of sensitivity was rated worse for the AHA regimen as well. The present study shows the enhanced mildness of PHAs and their equivalence in providing antiaging benefits compared with an AHA regimen.
已经开展了大量临床研究来评估多羟基酸(PHA)在护肤品中的有益效果。尽管有大量证据表明PHA能为皮肤提供抗老化作用,但尚未对α-羟基酸(AHA)和PHA在这些作用方面进行直接比较。这项为期12周的临床研究对含葡萄糖酸内酯的产品(PHA)与含乙醇酸的产品(AHA)进行了比较。在基线以及产品使用6周和12周后,对面部进行光老化的临床分级以及客观和主观刺激性评估。还收集了捏回弹测试、鱼尾纹区域的硅胶复制品以及产品功效和耐受性的自我评估数据。通过硅胶复制品、临床分级和捏回弹测试皮肤弹性来衡量,两种方案均显示出对皮肤有显著的抗老化益处。两种方案在抗老化益处方面仅有2个具有统计学意义(P <.05)的差异:(1)仅在第12周时,使用AHA时皮肤色泽发黄改善更明显(AHA,17.1%;PHA,12.4%),以及(2)仅在第12周时,使用AHA时捏回弹改善更明显(AHA,13.5%;PHA,10.2%)。刺激性分级和受试者自我评估表明,PHA方案比AHA方案耐受性更好。在第6周和第12周时,AHA治疗组受试者的刺痛和灼烧感明显更严重,AHA方案的敏感程度评分也更低。本研究表明,与AHA方案相比,PHA的温和性增强且在提供抗老化益处方面相当。