Green Barbara A, Yu Ruey J, Van Scott Eugene J
NeoStrata Company, Inc, Princeton, NJ 08540, USA.
Clin Dermatol. 2009 Sep-Oct;27(5):495-501. doi: 10.1016/j.clindermatol.2009.06.023.
The hydroxyacids are represented by the alpha-hydroxyacids, beta-hydroxyacids, polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids. Together, these ingredients form a class of compounds with unparalleled benefits to the skin and unprecedented usage in the cosmeceutical market in cosmetic and therapeutic formulations alike. The most commonly used hydroxyacid is glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxyacid that has been used extensively in cosmetic antiaging formulations, moisturizers, and peels, and in treatment products to improve hyperpigmentation and acne. The newer polyhydroxy and bionic acids offer the benefits of alpha-hydroxyacids without irritation, making them suitable for use on sensitive skin, rosacea, and after cosmetic procedures. They also provide additional antioxidant/chelation, barrier strengthening, and moisturizing effects. Bionic acids inhibit matrix metalloproteinase enzymes in skin, providing a preventative antiaging benefit. The hydroxyacids as a class can be combined with therapeutically active materials and cosmetic procedures to increase therapeutic effects and improve tolerability and outcomes of medicinal agents and procedures.
羟基酸包括α - 羟基酸、β - 羟基酸、多羟基酸和仿生酸。这些成分共同构成了一类对皮肤具有无与伦比益处的化合物，在化妆品和治疗配方的药妆市场中有着前所未有的应用。最常用的羟基酸是乙醇酸，一种α - 羟基酸，已广泛用于化妆品抗老化配方、保湿剂、去角质产品，以及用于改善色素沉着和痤疮的治疗产品中。新型的多羟基酸和仿生酸具有α - 羟基酸的益处且无刺激性，使其适用于敏感性皮肤、酒渣鼻以及美容手术后。它们还具有额外的抗氧化/螯合、增强屏障和保湿作用。仿生酸可抑制皮肤中的基质金属蛋白酶，具有预防抗老化功效。作为一类，羟基酸可与治疗活性物质和美容程序相结合，以增强治疗效果，提高药物和程序的耐受性及效果。
