Ruetsch S B, Kamath Y K
TRI/Princeton, Princeton, NJ 08542.
J Cosmet Sci. 2005 Sep-Oct;56(5):323-30.
Cationic conditioning compounds protect against hair damage caused by cosmetic chemical treatments and grooming practices. They also enhance the retention of moisture. However, the question as to whether they do this superficially by residing on the hair surface or by penetrating into the fiber remains unanswered. In this work, an attempt has been made to show the penetration of a low-molecular-weight cationic conditioning compound into the hair cortex using the time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (TOF SIMS) method, applied in earlier research to show the penetration of oils into hair. An example of the practical benefit of such penetration into the cortex in greatly improving the fatigue resistance of hair has been discussed.
阳离子调理化合物可防止由美容化学处理和梳理操作导致的头发损伤。它们还能增强水分保持能力。然而,关于它们是通过驻留在头发表面还是渗透到纤维内部来实现这些作用的问题,仍未得到解答。在这项研究中,人们尝试使用飞行时间二次离子质谱法(TOF SIMS)来证明一种低分子量阳离子调理化合物渗透进入头发皮质层,该方法在早期研究中曾用于证明油脂渗透进入头发。文中还讨论了这种渗透进入皮质层在极大提高头发抗疲劳能力方面的实际益处的一个例子。