Komesvarakul Napaporn, Sanders Monica D, Szekeres Erika, Acosta Edgar J, Faller James F, Mentlik Tony, Fisher Louis B, Nicoll Gregg, Sabatini David A, Scamehorn John F
University of Oklahoma, School of Chemical, Biological, and Material Engineering and the Institute for Applied Surfactant Research, Sarkeys Energy Center, 100 E. Boyd, Norman, OK 73019, USA.
J Cosmet Sci. 2006 Jul-Aug;57(4):309-25.
Microemulsification of triglyceride-based oil is challenging due to the formation of undesirable phases such as macroemulsions, liquid crystals, or sponge phases. This research evaluates the formation of artificial sebum microemulsions using linker molecules, with the addition of co-oil to help enhance sebum solubilization. The microemulsion consists of a lipophilic linker (sorbitan monooleate), a hydrophilic linker (hexylglucocide), a main surfactant (sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate), a co-oil, and artificial sebum. The effect of adding co-oil to the phase behavior and the microstructure of the resulting microemulsion is described. The effect of several types of co-oil is also studied; the co-oils evaluated here are squalene, squalane, isopropyl myristate, and ethyl laurate. The effect of salinity on the microemulsion phase behavior is also presented. Fish diagrams are obtained by plotting total surfactant/linker concentration as a function of sebum fraction in the oil mixture (co-oil + sebum). Different microemulsion types (Winsor Types I, II, III, and IV) are formed, depending on the total surfactant/linker concentration and the fraction of co-oil in the oil mixture. Winsor Type IV (single-phase) microemulsions are observed at high surfactant/linker concentrations. These single-phase, isotropic, and low-viscous fluids are particularly useful for cleansing and delivery of functional ingredients in skin care products. Salt addition shifts the fish diagram towards more hydrophobic oil systems and higher surfactant/linker concentrations.
基于甘油三酯的油的微乳化具有挑战性,因为会形成不期望的相,如宏观乳液、液晶或海绵相。本研究评估了使用连接分子形成人工皮脂微乳液的情况,并添加助油以增强皮脂的增溶作用。该微乳液由亲脂性连接剂(脱水山梨醇单油酸酯)、亲水性连接剂(己基葡糖苷)、主表面活性剂(二辛基磺基琥珀酸钠)、助油和人工皮脂组成。描述了添加助油对所得微乳液的相行为和微观结构的影响。还研究了几种类型助油的影响;这里评估的助油是角鲨烯、角鲨烷、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯和月桂酸乙酯。还介绍了盐度对微乳液相行为的影响。通过绘制总表面活性剂/连接剂浓度与油混合物(助油 + 皮脂)中皮脂分数之间的函数关系,得到了鱼尾图。根据总表面活性剂/连接剂浓度和油混合物中助油的分数,形成了不同类型的微乳液(温莎I型、II型、III型和IV型)。在高表面活性剂/连接剂浓度下观察到温莎IV型(单相)微乳液。这些单相、各向同性且低粘度的流体对于护肤品中功能性成分的清洁和递送特别有用。添加盐会使鱼尾图向更疏水的油体系和更高的表面活性剂/连接剂浓度方向移动。