Science. 1993 May 14;260(5110):968-71. doi: 10.1126/science.260.5110.968.
Computer simulations of flow and sediment transport in the swash zone on a beach demonstrate that a model that couples local flow acceleration and alongshore surface gradient is sufficient to produce uniformly spaced beach cusps. The characteristics of the simulated cusps and the conditions under which they form are in reasonable agreement with observations of natural cusps. The self-organization mechanism in the model is incompatible with an accepted model in which standing alongshore waves drive the regular pattern of erosion and deposition that gives rise to beach cusps. Because the models make similar predictions, it is concluded that currently available observational data are insufficient for discrimination between them.
计算机模拟海滩上冲刷带中的水流和泥沙输运表明,一个能耦合局部水流加速和沿岸面坡度的模型足以产生规则间隔的海滩岬角。模拟岬角的特征及其形成条件与自然岬角的观测结果基本一致。模型中的自组织机制与一个公认的模型不一致,后者认为沿岸立波驱动了导致海滩岬角形成的侵蚀和沉积的规则模式。由于这些模型做出了类似的预测,因此可以得出结论,目前的观测数据还不足以对它们进行区分。