Department of Chemistry, Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY 13699-5810, U.S.A.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000 Jun;22(3):181-99. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00046.x.
The phase diagrams of a nonionic surfactant (Laureth 4), water, and three different fragrance compounds, limonene, phenethyl alcohol and benzaldehyde, were compared. The location of the fragrance molecules in the lamellar liquid crystals (LLC) was investigated using the small-angle X-ray diffraction. The evaporation processes of the fragrance emulsions, consisting of 80 wt.% water, 15 wt.% fragrance and 5 wt.% surfactant, were followed both experimentally through an optical microscope, and theoretically through calculation based on the knowledge of the vapour pressure of the fragrance along the demixing line of the water-in-oil microemulsion (L(2)) phase boundary. Evaporation of the phenethyl alcohol emulsion led the system directly into the L(2) phase region, with very little phenethyl alcohol evaporated in 20 min. For the limonene system, during evaporation the system experienced several multi-phase regions, then reached the water-surfactant axis, and finally went into the L(2) phase region. By contrast to phenethyl alcohol, limonene evaporated completely within 10 min. Benzaldehyde emulsion went through structural changes similar to those of limonene, while the fragrance evaporated continuously until completion in 20 min.
比较了一种非离子表面活性剂（月桂醇聚醚-4）、水和三种不同香料化合物（柠檬烯、苯乙醇和苯甲醛）的相图。使用小角 X 射线衍射研究了这些香料分子在层状液晶（LLC）中的位置。通过光学显微镜实验和基于油包水乳状液（L(2)）相边界处的香味蒸汽压知识的理论计算，跟踪了包含 80wt%水、15wt%香料和 5wt%表面活性剂的香料乳液的蒸发过程。苯乙醇乳液的蒸发使系统直接进入 L(2)相区，在 20 分钟内蒸发的苯乙醇很少。对于柠檬烯体系，在蒸发过程中，系统经历了几个多相区，然后到达水-表面活性剂轴，最后进入 L(2)相区。与苯乙醇相比，柠檬烯在 10 分钟内完全蒸发。苯甲醛乳液经历了与柠檬烯相似的结构变化，而香味则持续蒸发，20 分钟内完全蒸发。
