Harima Shoichi, Yoshikawa Masayuki, Tokuoka Kiyoshi
Pharmaceutical Research and Technology Institute, Kinki University, 3-4-1 Kowakae, Higashi-osaka, Osaka 577-8502.
Yakushigaku Zasshi. 2008;43(1):16-32.
Not only tea leaves, but also many kinds of plants have been used as tea, even those plants not belonging to Camellia sinensis, and they should be called "tea out of tea" in the Lucidophyllous forest zone. Generally, the tea leaf is drank after being decocted (almost boiled). The growth distribution of tea ranges in a belt-like zone of 30-40 degrees north latitude. Therefore, tea might have grown wild as "YAMACHA (mountain tea)" from ancient times in Japan as well as China. The first recored of tea drinking in Japan is the ceremony of "GYOUCHA" at the Imperial Court of the Emperor SHOUMU in 729. On the other hand, the oldest book about tea in China (CHAKYOU) was written in 770. Therefore, it seems that tea drinking started at nearly the same time in both countries. Tea was dispensed as medical supplies by Chinese medicinal prescription (SENKYUCHACHOUSAN) in Japan, but in China, tea was used as powdered medicine for drinking (SEICHA). However, the leaf of a certain plant used as "tea out of tea," was applied as a galenical preparation for traditional Chinese medicinal constitution. However, it is not possible to judge whether or not there was adaptability in Chinese medicine theory. In Japan, when tea was first consumed as a food, other than a few exceptions tea leaves were used as a coarse tea (BANCHA) until the latter half of the Meiji period. Mixing in air by stirring a tea solution, and at the same time, letting tea match with hot water. It was wisdom to improve the taste. As a result, in order to make bubble well, both of the condition and technique were devised. One of the approaches was to add the dried plant of Leguminosae (saponin) or tea flower (saponin), when "BANCHA" was decorted. And also tools such as a bamboo tea whisk (CHASEN) as well as bowl (GOROHACHI-CHAWAN), were conceived. "FURICHA" was served as a medicine by KUUYASHOUNIN in Japan in 951. Afterwards, the prayer ceremonies at shrines and temples used CHARAZU," showing the custom to serve tea in 1400. The custom of tea serving continues today, and the tea flower continues to be used according to the demand. After that, it seems that "FURICHA" (tea with bubbles) continued to be used for 640 years, until 1590 (AZUCHI-MOMOYAMA period) because MANCHARAZU was regarded as important in religion. Then, it is believed that the customs of "BOTEBOTECHA" and/or"BATABATACHA" succeeded traditionally. The culture of both tea drinking and cooking, each development course, existed respectively from the relations of tea and food. The state that was accompanied with neither tea nor cooking, such as "KISHUU-CHAGAYU (tea gruel)" and BOTEBOTECHA, continued for a while, but it was combined together as "ICHIJUU-ICHISSA (one soup one tea)" of "KAISEKIRYOURI (tea-ceremony dish)." It is noteworthy that the tea flower is used as preserved food seasoned with "MISO (fermented soybean paste)" and "TSUKUDANI (boiled food in sweetened soy sauce)." Even though old documents about the use of tea flowers as food in China were not found, according to literature in the past ten years, seven descriptions were found that the tea flower was used for food provided alone or with black tea, oolong tea or green tea. As for tea leaves and tea flowers being used as medicine, drink or food in Japan, as well as in neighboring countries which belong to the Lucidophyllous forest zone. The process that they were regarded as important with the time was investigated and reported here.
不仅茶叶，许多种类的植物都被用作茶，甚至那些不属于茶树的植物，在常绿阔叶林带它们应该被称为“非茶之茶”。一般来说，茶叶经过煎煮（几乎煮沸）后饮用。茶树的生长分布在北纬30 - 40度的带状区域。因此，在日本和中国，茶可能自古以来就以“山茶”的形式野生生长。日本首次有饮茶记录是729年圣武天皇宫廷的“御茶”仪式。另一方面，中国最早的关于茶的书籍（《茶经》）写于770年。因此，两国饮茶似乎几乎是同时开始的。在日本，茶作为药品按中药方剂（参苓茶调散）调配，但在中国，茶被用作冲服的粉剂药（煎茶）。然而，用作“非茶之茶”的某种植物的叶子，被用作传统中医体质的盖伦制剂。然而，无法判断其是否符合中医理论。在日本，当茶最初作为食物饮用时，除了少数例外，直到明治后期茶叶都被用作粗茶（番茶）。通过搅拌茶溶液混入空气，同时让茶与热水充分接触。这是改善口感的智慧之举。结果，为了更好地产生泡沫，人们设计了条件和技巧。一种方法是在煮“番茶”时加入豆科干燥植物（皂苷）或茶花（皂苷）。此外，还发明了诸如竹制茶筅（茶筅）和茶碗（五郎八茶碗）等工具。951年日本的空也上人将“沸茶”用作药物。之后，神社和寺庙的祈祷仪式使用“茶注”，这表明在1400年有上茶的习俗。上茶的习俗一直延续至今，茶花也根据需求继续被使用。此后，“沸茶”（有泡沫的茶）似乎持续使用了640年，直到1590年（安土桃山时代），因为“满茶注”在宗教中被视为重要。然后，人们认为“瓶瓶茶”和/或“波波茶”的习俗传统地传承了下来。饮茶和烹饪的文化，各自的发展历程，都源于茶与食物的关系。既没有茶也没有烹饪的状态，比如“纪州茶粥”和“瓶瓶茶”，持续了一段时间，但后来它们合并成了“怀石料理”的“一汤一茶”。值得注意的是，茶花被用作用“味噌”（发酵大豆酱）和“佃煮”（甜酱油煮的食物）调味的腌制食品。尽管在中国没有找到关于茶花用作食物的古老文献，但根据过去十年的文献，发现有七处描述茶花单独或与红茶、乌龙茶或绿茶一起被用作食物。关于在日本以及属于常绿阔叶林带的周边国家，茶叶和茶花被用作药物、饮品或食物，这里对它们随时间推移被视为重要事物的过程进行了调查和报道。
