Cosmetics Laboratory, Kanebo, Ltd., 5-3-28, Kotobuki-cho, Odawara, Kanagawa 250, Japan.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 1985 Feb;7(1):15-27. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00391.x.
Synopsis The mechanism of colour change during the pigment dispersion process and during powder application to the skin surface was studied by examining the colour extension properties of Yellow. Red, and Black iron oxides in white powder bases. A new measure for the evaluation of the degree of colour extension was devised. This measure corresponded well with human visual sensation, and was found to be useful for comparing the rates of colour extension of pigments. The rate of colour extension of pigments was found to vary in the order: Yellowacicular Redgranular RedBlack. This result explains colour darkening and the change towards reddish tones during the pigment dispersion process, because Yellow extends fully in the early stage of the process but Red, especially in granular form, and Black continue to extend even in the later stage. Acicular Red iron oxide is more favourably employed than the granular form to attain sufficient colour extension of foundations with lower energy expenditure, and to decrease the discrepancy between the cake colour and the colour of applied powder.
概要 研究了黄色、红色和黑色氧化铁在白色粉末基质中的颜色扩展特性,以探讨颜料分散过程中和粉末施用于皮肤表面时颜色变化的机制。设计了一种新的评估颜色扩展程度的方法。该方法与人眼视觉感受相符,可用于比较颜料的颜色扩展速率。颜料的颜色扩展速率依次为:针状黄色、颗粒状红色、红色、黑色。这一结果解释了颜料分散过程中颜色变暗和向红色调变化的原因,因为黄色在早期阶段完全扩展,而红色,尤其是颗粒状的,甚至在后期阶段仍在扩展。与颗粒状相比,针状氧化铁更有利于粉底获得更低能量消耗的充分颜色扩展,并减少蛋糕颜色和施用粉末颜色之间的差异。