Color Science, L'Oreal R&I, KSP B1113, Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan.
Evaluation Intelligence, L'Oreal R&I, KSP D237, Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2023 Jun;45(3):413-423. doi: 10.1111/ics.12849. Epub 2023 Apr 21.
Inorganic pigments used as colouring agents in cosmetics (especially foundations) have many advantages over organic pigments, such as better opacity, weather and chemical resistance and lower cost. However, the types used in cosmetics are very limited, with various kinds of red, yellow and black iron oxide along with white titanium dioxide being the main materials. Ultramarine blue (UB) as a blue pigment and chromium oxide as a green pigment are also sometimes used in cosmetics. In this study, we focus once again on UB and reexamine the possibility of expanding the colour gamut using UB instead of black pigment and creating other optical cosmetic effects.
The effects of using UB were measured using spectroscopic instruments to determine the colour parameters when applied on artificial skin. The appearance of the product when applied to the human face was also verified both in terms of human appearance evaluation by an expert (esthetician) and numerical evaluation using imaging spectrometer measurements.
The verified results showed that, at least in the colour range targeting Asian people, UB could not create a new colour gamut, but it was clear that UB could impart an optical effect that produced a beautiful skin effect on the face. This was remarkable both in the evaluation of human appearance and in the spectral measurement results, which confirmed the phenomenon "red-light makes skin look beautiful," which has been variously reported since the 2000s, using a different approach.
We have discovered a new possibility that UB, widely recognized as a pigment, is involved not only in colour tone but also in optical effects that contribute to the goal of beautiful skin, i.e. hiding skin wrinkles, eliminating unevenness of colour and improving skin homogeneity.
化妆品(尤其是粉底)中用作着色剂的无机颜料比有机颜料具有许多优势,例如更好的不透明度、耐天气和化学性以及更低的成本。然而,化妆品中使用的颜料种类非常有限,主要材料有各种红色、黄色和黑色氧化铁以及白色二氧化钛。有时也会在化妆品中使用群青蓝(UB)作为蓝色颜料和氧化铬作为绿色颜料。在本研究中,我们再次关注 UB,并重新研究使用 UB 代替黑色颜料来扩大色域并创造其他光学美容效果的可能性。
使用光谱仪器测量 UB 的效果,以确定在人造皮肤上使用时的颜色参数。还通过专家(美容师)进行的人类外观评估和使用成像光谱仪测量进行的数值评估来验证产品在人脸上的外观。
验证结果表明,至少在针对亚洲人的颜色范围内,UB 无法创建新的色域,但很明显,UB 可以赋予光学效果,对面部产生美丽的皮肤效果。这在人类外观评估和光谱测量结果中都很明显,这证实了自 21 世纪以来各种报道的“红光使皮肤看起来美丽”的现象,这是通过不同的方法实现的。
我们发现了一个新的可能性,即 UB 作为一种广泛认可的颜料,不仅涉及色调,还涉及有助于美丽皮肤目标的光学效果,即隐藏皮肤皱纹、消除颜色不均匀性和提高皮肤均一性。