Centre de Recherches de la Société L'Oréal, 1, avenue de St Germain, 93601 Aulnay-sous-Bois Cedex.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 1981 Jun;3(3):139-52. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00278.x.
Synopsis Benzylidene camphor derivatives have been currently used as ultraviolet filters in sunscreen compositions. When solutions of these compounds are exposed to the light from a solar simulator, a photoinduced cis-trans isomerization is observed. The initial quantum yields of this photochemical isomerization of studied molecules have been determined in several solvents. Their photochemical behaviour depends neither on the concentration nor on the presence or absence of oxygen or other inhibitors such as isopropanol or biacetyl. It means that the lifetime of the precursor states of isomerization is about 10(-12)s, that is to say, too short for them to react with neighbouring molecules. For each compound, the ratio of the respective concentrations of 'E' and 'Z' forms was also determined by photostationary state. A good agreement between theoretical and experimental values of this ratio shows that the studied compounds are only very slightly photodegradable. This was confirmed by the low values of photodegradation quantum yields. In case of the studied compounds, the isomerization process observed is totally reversible. During irradiation a photostationary state is quickly reached, each isomer may change into the other form after absorption of a photon which leads to a mixture of isomers. In practice, it is this mixture of E and Z forms which acts as UV filters. It may be said that a very short lifetime of the excited states, a good light stability and a reaction inertia under light irradiation make these compounds excellent sunscreen agents.
概述 苯亚甲基樟脑衍生物目前被用作防晒霜中的紫外线滤光剂。当这些化合物的溶液暴露于太阳模拟器的光下时,会观察到光诱导的顺反异构化。在几种溶剂中,已经确定了研究分子的这种光化学反应的初始量子产率。它们的光化学行为既不依赖于浓度,也不依赖于氧气或其他抑制剂(如异丙醇或双乙酰)的存在与否。这意味着异构化的前体状态的寿命约为 10(-12)s,也就是说,它们与相邻分子反应的时间太短。对于每种化合物,还通过光稳定态确定了“E”和“Z”形式的相应浓度的比值。该比值的理论值和实验值之间的良好一致性表明,所研究的化合物仅略有光降解。这一点通过光降解量子产率的低值得到了证实。在所研究的化合物中,观察到的异构化过程是完全可逆的。在照射过程中,很快达到光稳定态,每种异构体在吸收一个光子后都可能变成另一种形式,从而导致异构体的混合物。在实践中,正是这种 E 和 Z 形式的混合物作为紫外线滤光剂发挥作用。可以说,激发态的寿命非常短、良好的光稳定性和光照射下的反应惰性使这些化合物成为出色的防晒霜成分。