Durand L, Habran N, Henschel V, Amighi K
Laboratory of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, Université Libre de Bruxelles, Brussels, Belgium.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2009 Aug;31(4):279-92. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00498.x. Epub 2009 Jun 3.
The aim of this study was to evaluate the possible penetration through human skin of organic and inorganic filters contained in sunscreen emulsions packaged in aerosol cans, using an in vitro method. Experiments were carried out on two different types of emulsion: W/Si and W/O. This study was conducted using static diffusion cells (Franz cells). The determination of organic UV filters [Methylene Bis Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT); Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT); Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB); Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EMC); and 2-Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (ED-PABA)] was performed by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Therefore, it was important to develop a single analytical method for the quantification of the five organic filters with the aim of facilitating the experiment. The determination of inorganic filters [titanium dioxide (TiO(2)) and zinc oxide (ZnO)] was performed using an emission spectrometric analysis method (ICP-OES). The HPLC and ICP-OES methods were validated. After a penetration test of 24 h duration, the results showed very low penetration only for two of the organic filters (maximum penetration of 1.21 microg cm(-2) h(-1) for EMC and 0.14 microg cm(-2) h(-1) for MBBT) and no penetration for the inorganic filters. Moreover, more than 50% of each sunscreen agent stayed on the surface on the skin. These results are consistent with those in the literature that presents similar experiments. This study showed that the sprayable sunscreen products developed, which contained high concentrations of UV filters, presented a low level of skin penetration.
本研究旨在采用体外方法评估气雾剂包装的防晒乳液中有机和无机滤光剂透过人体皮肤的可能性。实验针对两种不同类型的乳液进行:水包硅(W/Si)型和油包水(W/O)型。本研究使用静态扩散池(弗兰兹池)进行。有机紫外线滤光剂[二甲基亚苄基二苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚(MBBT);双-乙基己基氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三嗪(BEMT);二乙氨基羟苯甲酰基己基苯甲酸酯(DHHB);乙基己基甲氧基肉桂酸酯(EMC);以及2-乙基己基二甲基对氨基苯甲酸(ED-PABA)]的测定采用高效液相色谱法(HPLC)。因此,开发一种单一的分析方法来定量这五种有机滤光剂以方便实验非常重要。无机滤光剂[二氧化钛(TiO₂)和氧化锌(ZnO)]的测定采用发射光谱分析法(电感耦合等离子体发射光谱法,ICP-OES)。HPLC和ICP-OES方法均经过验证。经过24小时的渗透测试,结果显示只有两种有机滤光剂的渗透率非常低(EMC的最大渗透率为1.21微克/平方厘米·小时,MBBT的最大渗透率为0.14微克/平方厘米·小时),无机滤光剂没有渗透率。此外,每种防晒剂有超过50%残留在皮肤表面。这些结果与文献中呈现的类似实验结果一致。本研究表明,所开发的含有高浓度紫外线滤光剂的可喷雾防晒产品对皮肤的渗透率较低。