Dermatology Resident, Clinical Dermatology Center, Geisinger Health System, Danville, PA, USA.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010 Sep;9(3):218-25. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00516.x.
New developments in the realm of skin rejuvenation such as phytotherapy are at an astounding increasing pace in the cosmeceutical market. Yet, many of these products that are classified as cosmeceuticals are tested less vigorously and do not have to be approved by the Food and Drug Administration to establish efficacy and safety. Thus, as clinicians, we must ask the question, "Is there science-based evidence to validate the mechanism of these new treatments?" We assessed the top anti-aging creams currently on the market specifically evaluating their botanical ingredients. Some of the most common botanicals that are hot off the market are: Rosmarinus officinalis, Vitis vinifera (grape seed extract), Citronellol, Limonene, Oenothera biennis (evening primrose), Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice extract), Aframomum angustifolium seed extract, Diosgenin (wild yam), N6 furfuryladenine (kinetin), and Ergothioneine. Through researching each of these botanical ingredients, we have concluded that randomized controlled trials are still needed in this area, but there is promise in some of these ingredients and science to validate them.
皮肤焕新领域的新进展,如植物疗法,在美容护肤品市场正以前所未有的速度增长。然而,许多被归类为美容护肤品的产品并没有经过更严格的测试,也不必经过食品和药物管理局批准即可证明其疗效和安全性。因此,作为临床医生,我们必须要问:“这些新疗法的机制是否有基于科学的证据支持?”我们评估了目前市场上最受欢迎的抗衰老面霜,专门评估它们的植物成分。一些刚上市的最常见的植物成分有:迷迭香、葡萄(葡萄籽提取物)、香茅醇、柠檬烯、月见草、甘草(甘草提取物)、狭叶山篙种子提取物、薯蓣皂素(野生山药)、N6 呋喃甲腺嘌呤(激动素)和麦硫因。通过研究这些植物成分,我们得出的结论是,该领域仍需要进行随机对照试验,但其中一些成分和科学有潜力对其进行验证。