Université Joseph Fourier, Isere, Grenoble, France.
Int J Sports Med. 2011 Jan;32(1):49-53. doi: 10.1055/s-0030-1267230. Epub 2010 Nov 17.
During rock-climbing, fingers grasp holds of various shapes with high force intensities. To ideally place the fingertips on the holds, the thumb is sometimes positioned on the nail of the index finger. This allows using the thumb as an additional actuator by exerting a supplementary force in the same direction as the index, middle, ring and little fingers. This study analysed how the forces exerted by the fingers are modified by the additional action of the thumb. The results showed that the thumb increases the resultant forces exerted on the hold. It was shown that the pathology risks of the middle, ring and little fingers were not modified in this condition. The finger force sharing was totally re-organized due to the support of the thumb. This led to the conclusion that the central nervous system organised the association of the 5 fingers. The results were discussed in regard to the established theories of the virtual fingers and the neutral line of the hand.
在攀岩过程中,手指会以高强度的力量抓住各种形状的支撑物。为了理想地将指尖放在支撑物上,拇指有时会放在食指的指甲上。这样可以通过向与食指、中指、环指和小指相同的方向施加额外的力,将拇指用作附加执行器。本研究分析了拇指的额外动作如何改变手指施加的力。结果表明,拇指增加了施加在支撑物上的合力。结果表明,在这种情况下,中指、环指和小指的病理风险没有改变。由于拇指的支撑,手指的力量分配完全重新组织。这得出的结论是,中枢神经系统组织了 5 个手指的关联。结果与现有的虚拟手指理论和手部中线理论进行了讨论。