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通过 Briggs-Rauscher 反应对美容霜抗氧化能力的第一个定量评价系统:迈向基于证据的化妆品的关键一步。

The first quantitative rating system of the antioxidant capacity of beauty creams via the Briggs-Rauscher reaction: a crucial step towards evidence-based cosmetics.

机构信息

ITIS Montani, Via Montani 7, 63023, Fermo, Italy.

出版信息

Analyst. 2011 Feb 7;136(3):613-8. doi: 10.1039/c0an00637h. Epub 2010 Dec 1.

Abstract

Oxidative damage is the primary cause of skin aging. Skin care products are numerous and overwhelming, yet there is certain similarity among different formulations. Moisturizers are ubiquitous and the presence of particular added ingredients supports specific marketing claims. The antioxidant effects of botanical polyphenols possess tremendous marketing appeal, because oxidative stress is caused by an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the skin ability to neutralize them. The concept of evidence-based cosmetics lacks a widely accepted method to estimate the antioxidant capacity of the beauty cream. This was the motive force of the present study: for the first time we put forth a quantitative rating system of skin care products. The overall antioxidant power of 75 widely used and advertised beauty creams was comparatively measured via the oscillating Briggs-Rauscher (BR) reaction. Many dermocosmetic products confirmed their ability to ensure protection against free radicals, even if differences among various creams are striking and often not correlated with the their price. The method we developed is simple and cheap and it can allow dermatologists and consumers to compare and choose effectively; on the other hand, producers can used this method to select the most active antioxidant cosmetic agent to optimise the product performance.

摘要

氧化损伤是皮肤衰老的主要原因。护肤品种类繁多,令人应接不暇,但不同配方之间存在一定的相似性。保湿剂无处不在,特定添加成分的存在支持特定的营销诉求。植物多酚的抗氧化作用具有巨大的市场吸引力,因为氧化应激是由活性氧(ROS)的产生与皮肤中和它们的能力之间的不平衡引起的。基于证据的化妆品的概念缺乏一种广泛接受的方法来估计美容霜的抗氧化能力。这就是本研究的动力:我们首次提出了一种定量的护肤品评级系统。通过振荡 Briggs-Rauscher(BR)反应,比较测量了 75 种广泛使用和宣传的美容霜的整体抗氧化能力。许多皮肤护理产品证实了它们能够确保免受自由基的侵害,即使各种面霜之间存在差异,而且这种差异通常与价格无关。我们开发的方法简单且便宜,可以让皮肤科医生和消费者有效地进行比较和选择;另一方面,生产者可以使用这种方法选择最有效的抗氧化化妆品成分来优化产品性能。

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