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氧化损伤、皮肤衰老、抗氧化剂与一种新型抗氧化剂评级系统

Oxidative damage, skin aging, antioxidants and a novel antioxidant rating system.

作者信息

Palmer Debbie M, Kitchin Jennifer Silverman

机构信息

White Plains Hospital, Department of Medicine, White Plains, NY, USA.

出版信息

J Drugs Dermatol. 2010 Jan;9(1):11-5.

PMID:20120419
Abstract

It is believed that oxidative stress is caused by an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen and a biological system's ability to neutralize the reactive intermediates. Oxidative damage occurs because of both intrinsic and extrinsic mechanisms. Together, intrinsic and extrinsic damage are the primary causes of skin aging. The skin uses a series of intrinsic antioxidants to protect itself from free radical damage. Naturally occurring extrinsic antioxidants have also been widely shown to offset and alleviate these changes. Unlike sunscreens, which have an SPF rating system to guide consumers in their purchases, there is no widely accepted method to choose antioxidant anti-aging products. ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) and ABEL-RAC (Analysis By Emitted Light-Relative Antioxidant Capacity), are both accepted worldwide as a standard measure of the antioxidant capacity of foods, and are rating systems that could be applied to all antioxidant skincare products. The standardization of antioxidant creams could revolutionize the cosmeceutical market and give physicians and consumers the ability to compare and choose effectively.

摘要

人们认为,氧化应激是由活性氧的产生与生物系统中和反应中间体的能力之间的失衡所引起的。氧化损伤是由内在和外在机制共同导致的。内在和外在损伤共同构成了皮肤衰老的主要原因。皮肤利用一系列内在抗氧化剂来保护自身免受自由基损伤。天然存在的外在抗氧化剂也已被广泛证明能够抵消和减轻这些变化。与具有防晒系数(SPF)评级系统以指导消费者购买防晒产品不同,目前尚无广泛接受的方法来选择抗氧化抗衰老产品。氧自由基吸收能力(ORAC)和发射光分析相对抗氧化能力(ABEL-RAC)在全球范围内均被公认为衡量食品抗氧化能力的标准方法,并且是可应用于所有抗氧化护肤品的评级系统。抗氧化面霜的标准化可能会给药妆市场带来变革,并使医生和消费者能够进行有效比较和选择。

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