含佛手柑油香水对人体皮肤的光毒性特性：UVA和UVB防晒霜的光保护作用。

Phototoxic properties of perfumes containing bergamot oil on human skin: photoprotective effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens.

作者信息

Dubertret L, Serraf-Tircazes D, Jeanmougin M, Morlière P, Averbeck D, Young A R

机构信息

Laboratoire de Dermatologie, INSERUM U.312, Hôpital Henri Mondor, Créteil, France.

出版信息

J Photochem Photobiol B. 1990 Nov;7(2-4):251-9. doi: 10.1016/1011-1344(90)85160-x.

DOI:10.1016/1011-1344(90)85160-x

PMID:2128327

Abstract

As part of an international cooperative study of the photophysical, photomutagenic and photocarcinogenic properties of bergamot oil and the effect of UVA and UVB sunscreens, the phototoxic properties of model perfumes containing 5, 15 and 50 ppm 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP) in bergamot oil with and without a sunscreen have been investigated on human skin. It has been confirmed that the photosensitivity of human skin is maximal 2 h after perfume application. Interestingly the addition of a UVA sunscreen is more efficient for decreasing the phototoxic properties of bergamot oil than is a UVB sunscreen. The addition of sunscreens in a model perfume containing 50 ppm 5-MOP in bergamot oil can reduce the phototoxic properties of this perfume to a toxicity equivalent to that produced by the application of a model perfume containing 15 ppm 5-MOP without sunscreens. However, despite their promising protective effect in vitro, UVB and UVA sunscreens at low concentration (0.5%-1%) in perfumes cannot suppress the phototoxicity of bergamot oil on human skin.

摘要

作为一项关于佛手柑油的光物理、光致突变和光致癌特性以及UVA和UVB防晒霜效果的国际合作研究的一部分，已对含5 ppm、15 ppm和50 ppm 5-甲氧基补骨脂素（5-MOP）的佛手柑油模型香水在有或无防晒霜情况下对人体皮肤的光毒性特性进行了研究。已证实，涂抹香水后2小时人体皮肤的光敏性最高。有趣的是，添加UVA防晒霜比添加UVB防晒霜在降低佛手柑油的光毒性特性方面更有效。在含50 ppm 5-MOP的佛手柑油模型香水中添加防晒霜，可将该香水的光毒性降低至与涂抹不含防晒霜的含15 ppm 5-MOP模型香水所产生的毒性相当的水平。然而，尽管UVB和UVA防晒霜在体外有良好的保护作用，但香水中低浓度（0.5%-1%）的UVB和UVA防晒霜并不能抑制佛手柑油对人体皮肤的光毒性。