Tarantino Maria, Terziani Sabina
Gastronomica (Berkeley Calif). 2010;10(3):45-51. doi: 10.1525/gfc.2010.10.3.45.
This article is an anthropological archeology of Sicilian confectionery, from the prehistoric-like assemblage of sesame seeds and honey (giurgiulena) to the extravagant gelato di campagna and the baroque-rustic cassata. Sweets are analyzed as architectural constructions that rely on newly discovered ingredients and techniques to create edible edifices that amazed the eye as much as the palate. They emerge from their historical and social context and affirm themselves as moments of innovation in the culinary art. On a deeper level, the art of pasticceri bears the marks of an existential quest that constantly redefines man's symbolic relation to the forces and contrasts of life.
本文是对西西里糖果的人类学考古研究,从类似史前的芝麻和蜂蜜组合(朱尔朱莱纳)到奢华的乡村冰淇淋和巴洛克风格的乡村卡萨塔。糖果被分析为建筑结构,它们依靠新发现的食材和技术来打造既令眼睛愉悦又让味蕾惊喜的可食用建筑。它们从其历史和社会背景中脱颖而出,并确立自身为烹饪艺术中的创新时刻。在更深层次上,糕点制作艺术带有一种生存探索的印记,这种探索不断重新定义人类与生活中的力量和矛盾的象征关系。