Lepilleur Carole, Mullay John, Kyer Carol, McCalister Pam, Clifford Ted
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., Noveon®Consumer Specialties, 9911 Brecksville Road, Brecksville, OH 44141, USA.
J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Mar-Apr;62(2):161-77.
Formulation composition has a dramatic influence on coacervate formation in conditioning shampoo. The purpose of this study is to correlate the amount of coacervate formation of novel cationic cassia polymers to the corresponding conditioning profiles on European brown hair using silicone deposition, cationic polymer deposition and sensory evaluation. A design of experiments was conducted by varying the levels of three surfactants (sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and cocamidopropyl betaine) in formulations containing cationic cassia polymers of different cationic charge density (1.7 and 3.0m Eq/g). The results show formulation composition dramatically affects physical properties, coacervation, silicone deposition, cationic polymer deposition and hair sensory attributes. Particularly, three parameters are of importance in determining silicone deposition: polymer charge, surfactant (micelle) charge and total amount of surfactant (micelle aspect ratio). Both sensory panel testing and silicone deposition results can be predicted with a high confidence level using statistical models that incorporate these parameters.
配方组成对调理香波中凝聚层的形成有显著影响。本研究的目的是通过硅氧烷沉积、阳离子聚合物沉积和感官评价，将新型阳离子决明聚合物的凝聚层形成量与欧洲棕色头发上相应的调理效果相关联。通过改变含有不同阳离子电荷密度（1.7和3.0 mEq/g）的阳离子决明聚合物的配方中三种表面活性剂（月桂醇聚醚硫酸酯钠、月桂醇硫酸酯钠和椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱）的含量，进行了实验设计。结果表明，配方组成对物理性质、凝聚、硅氧烷沉积、阳离子聚合物沉积和头发感官属性有显著影响。特别地，在确定硅氧烷沉积方面，有三个参数很重要：聚合物电荷、表面活性剂（胶束）电荷和表面活性剂总量（胶束长宽比）。使用包含这些参数的统计模型，可以高度准确地预测感官小组测试结果和硅氧烷沉积结果。
