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防晒霜产品:它们能保护我们免受什么伤害?

Sunscreen products: what do they protect us from?

机构信息

Université de Nantes, Nantes Atlantique Universités, LPiC, MMS, EA2160, Faculty of Pharmacy, 1 rue G. Veil-BP 53508, Nantes, F-44000 France.

出版信息

Int J Pharm. 2011 Aug 30;415(1-2):181-4. doi: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2011.05.071. Epub 2011 Jun 12.

DOI:10.1016/j.ijpharm.2011.05.071
PMID:21669263
Abstract

Whereas for fifty or so years acquiring a tan has been the trend for aesthetic reasons relating to current beauty criteria, the health authorities are now advocating vigilance in this area, prompted by the knowledge of the harmful effects of the sun, especially from its ultra-violet rays. In the European Union, sunscreen products are considered cosmetics and tests on their effectiveness can be performed in vivo or in vitro to determine four effectiveness indicators: the SPF (Sun Protection Factor), the PF-UVA (UVA Protection Factor), the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and the critical wave length. It is the erythemal SPF which is measured in the vast majority of cases: it can therefore be confirmed that sunscreen products protect us from sunburn under good conditions of use. We thought it would be interesting to calculate other indicators to assess protection against non-melanoma skin cancers (NMSC) and to quantify the effectiveness of the product against UVA1 or UVA2. To characterize the products tested, we have determined in vitro different SPF and PF-UVA values, by using not just the erythemal weighting factor but also the weighting factor relating to the non-melanocytic skin cancer (SPF(cnm) and PF-UVA(cnm)), by getting away from any weighting factor (SPF(m) and PF-UVA(m)) and lastly, by varying the integration limits to quantify the effectiveness of the tested product in the UVB (290-320 nm), UVA1 (340-400 nm) and UVA2 320-340 nm) fields. In this way, and using these new indicators, we have been able to qualify eleven commercial products-ten cosmetic products and one medical device. It can be interesting to take into account the non-melanocytic skin cancer protection in order to qualify the sunscreen products.

摘要

五十年来,出于对当前审美标准的考虑,人们追求晒成古铜色的肤色。但鉴于阳光,尤其是紫外线对人体的危害,卫生部门目前呼吁人们提高警惕。在欧盟,防晒霜被视为化妆品,其有效性可通过体内或体外试验来测试,以确定四个有效性指标:防晒因子(SPF)、长波紫外线防护因子(PF-UVA)、SPF/PF-UVA 比值和临界波长。绝大多数情况下,测定的是红斑 SPF 值:因此可以确认防晒霜在良好的使用条件下能保护我们免受晒伤。我们认为,计算其他指标来评估对非黑色素瘤皮肤癌(NMSC)的保护作用,并量化产品对 UVA1 或 UVA2 的有效性会很有趣。为了对测试产品进行定性,我们不仅使用红斑权重系数,还使用与非黑色素瘤皮肤癌(SPF(cnm)和 PF-UVA(cnm))相关的权重系数,通过不使用任何权重系数(SPF(m)和 PF-UVA(m)),以及改变积分限制,来测定产品在 UVB(290-320nm)、UVA1(340-400nm)和 UVA2(320-340nm)波段的有效性,从而确定不同的体外 SPF 和 PF-UVA 值。通过这种方式,并使用这些新指标,我们能够对 11 种商业产品(10 种化妆品和 1 种医疗器械)进行定性。考虑非黑色素瘤皮肤癌保护作用,从而对防晒霜进行定性,可能会很有趣。

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