University of Maryland, Maryland, United States.
Soc Sci Med. 2012 Oct;75(7):1236-43. doi: 10.1016/j.socscimed.2012.02.061. Epub 2012 Jun 12.
The logic and cultural myths that buttress the cosmeceutical industry construct the older woman as a victim of old age, part of an "at-risk" population who must monitor, treat and prevent any markers of old age. A content and discourse analysis of 124 advertisements from the US More magazine between 1998 and 2008, revealed three major themes working together to produce this civic duty: (1) the inclusion of scientific and medical authorities in order to define the cosmeceutical as a 'drug' curing a disease, (2) descriptions of the similarities (and differences) between the abilities of cosmeceuticals and cosmetic surgery to restore one's youth, and (3) the logic equating youth with beauty, femininity and power and older age with the absence of these qualities. Together these intersecting logics produce the "will to youth"-the imperative of the aging woman to promote her youthful appearance by any and all available means. Further, by using images and references to fantasies and traditional fairytales, cosmeceutical advertisements both promise and normalize expectations of eternal youth of the aging woman.
支撑着化妆品行业的逻辑和文化神话将老年女性构造成衰老的受害者,是“高危”人群的一部分,她们必须监测、治疗和预防任何衰老的迹象。对 1998 年至 2008 年间美国《More》杂志的 124 则广告进行内容和话语分析,揭示了三个主要主题,它们共同产生了这种公民义务:(1)纳入科学和医学权威,以便将化妆品定义为一种治疗疾病的“药物”;(2)描述化妆品和整容手术恢复青春的能力之间的相似之处(和差异);(3)将青春与美丽、女性气质和力量等同起来,将老年与缺乏这些品质等同起来的逻辑。这些相互交织的逻辑共同产生了“青春的意志”——老年女性通过一切可用手段促进自己年轻外表的强制性。此外,化妆品广告通过使用幻想和传统童话的图像和参考,既承诺又使人们对老年女性永葆青春的期望变得正常化。