Rana Jatinder, Diwakar Ganesh, Saito Lisa, Scholten Jeffrey D, Mulder Timothy
Analytical Sciences, Research and Development, Amway Corporation, Ada, MI 49355 (J.R., G.D., J.D.S., T.M.), and Nutrilite Division of Amway, Concentrate Development, Lakeview, CA 92567 (L.S.).
J Cosmet Sci. 2013 Nov-Dec;64(6):445-53.
Current efforts to develop effective skin lightening products through the inhibition of melanin production have focused on compounds that inhibit the function and activity of tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in the melanin biosynthesis pathway. Synthetic tyrosinase inhibitors, such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and arbutin, have been reported to cause skin irritation or acute dermatitis, raising concerns about the safety of these compounds. As a result, there is a need for safe natural ingredients that show effective skin lightening. In this report, we have identified a natural ingredient, pomegranate fruit extract, that inhibits melanin production in melanocytes and shows potential for use as a cosmetic skin lightening agent. In addition, we have identified a polyphenolic compound, punicalagins, as the active melanin inhibitor in pomegranate fruit extract based on its capacity to directly inhibit melanin production.
目前通过抑制黑色素生成来开发有效美白皮肤产品的努力主要集中在抑制酪氨酸酶功能和活性的化合物上，酪氨酸酶是黑色素生物合成途径中的限速酶。据报道，合成酪氨酸酶抑制剂，如对苯二酚、曲酸和熊果苷，会引起皮肤刺激或急性皮炎，引发了对这些化合物安全性的担忧。因此，需要安全且具有有效美白皮肤效果的天然成分。在本报告中，我们鉴定出一种天然成分——石榴果实提取物，它能抑制黑素细胞中的黑色素生成，并显示出作为化妆品美白剂的应用潜力。此外，基于其直接抑制黑色素生成的能力，我们确定了一种多酚化合物——石榴皮鞣素，它是石榴果实提取物中的活性黑色素抑制剂。
