Halikowski Smith Stefan
Department of History, Singleton Park, Swansea University, SA2 8PP, United Kingdom.
J Ethnopharmacol. 2015 Jun 5;167:64-77. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2014.10.048. Epub 2014 Nov 18.
Historians of the Eurasian spice trade focus on the fortunes of black pepper (Piper Nigrum L.), largely because the trading companies of the Dutch and English which they study also did. Capsicum peppers are, however, the world׳s most consumed spice, and their story needs to be told in parallel. The five species of capsicum peppers spread across the world in less than two hundred years following their discovery by Europeans in South and Central America and proved both hardier than Piper nigrum and able to reproduce spontaneously. While the taste was similar but more pungent than black pepper, capsicums provided an important vitamin C and bioflavanoid supplement to poorer people in southern and eastern Europe far from the precepts of good taste as dictated from Paris, and rapidly became a mainstay of tropical cuisine across the world. This contribution seeks both to trace and to understand that diffusion and its principal vectors from historical research amongst a plethora of primary source materials in European and Asian languages. Medical and dietetic reaction is presented from a wide range of contemporary texts. The work proceeds according to deductive reasoning and in comparison to the diffusion of black pepper consumption. It reveals the very different strategies of import substitution and commercial embargo undertaken by Portuguese and Spanish authorities, a somewhat later date of arrival in China than previously thought, and three different, competing lines of entry into an important area of later cultivation, namely Central Europe.
欧亚香料贸易的历史学家主要关注黑胡椒(Piper Nigrum L.)的命运,很大程度上是因为他们所研究的荷兰和英国贸易公司也是如此。然而,辣椒是世界上消费最多的香料,其故事也需要同时讲述。辣椒的五个品种在被欧洲人在南美洲和中美洲发现后的不到两百年时间里传播到了世界各地,事实证明它们比黑胡椒更耐寒,还能自行繁殖。虽然辣椒的味道与黑胡椒相似但更辛辣,但它为远离巴黎所规定的美味标准的南欧和东欧穷人提供了重要的维生素C和生物类黄酮补充剂,并迅速成为全球热带美食的主要食材。本文旨在通过对大量欧洲和亚洲语言的原始资料进行历史研究,追溯并理解这种传播及其主要途径。文中呈现了来自众多当代文献中的医学和饮食方面的反应。这项研究按照演绎推理的方式进行,并与黑胡椒消费的传播情况进行比较。它揭示了葡萄牙和西班牙当局采取的截然不同的进口替代和商业禁运策略,辣椒进入中国的时间比之前认为的要晚一些,以及进入后来重要种植区域中欧的三条不同且相互竞争的途径。