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评估含绿咖啡油化妆品配方皮肤相容性的综合方法

Integrated approach in the assessment of skin compatibility of cosmetic formulations with green coffee oil.

作者信息

Wagemaker T A L, Rijo P, Rodrigues L M, Maia Campos P M B G, Fernandes A S, Rosado C

机构信息

Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, Ribeirão Preto, Brazil.

CBIOS, Universidade Lusófona Research Center in Biosciences & Health Technologies, Lisboa, Portugal.

出版信息

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Oct;37(5):506-10. doi: 10.1111/ics.12225. Epub 2015 Apr 16.

Abstract

OBJECTIVE

Green coffee oil (GCO) has been used in cosmetic formulations due to its emollient and anti-ageing properties. However, there are insufficient studies about its safety when applied in cosmetic formulations.

METHODS

Cytotoxicity of GCO and of formulations containing 2.5-15% of GCO was evaluated by the MTT reduction assay, in human keratinocytes. Formulations containing 15% of GCO and the vehicle were applied under in use conditions in the volar forearm of human volunteers during 3 days. Transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum water content and erythema index were evaluated each 24 h using biophysical techniques. The same formulations were probed for skin tolerance through a patch test.

RESULTS

Neither pure GCO nor its formulations showed cytotoxic effects in concentrations up to 100 μg mL(-1) . Transepidermal water loss values showed a slight reduction when the formulation containing GCO was applied. Stratum corneum water content and erythema index did not show significant differences, as the results observed in the first day of the study were maintained throughout 3 days. None of the volunteers display any reaction after using an occlusive patch.

CONCLUSION

The results obtained in the study indicate that GCO seems to be safe for topical applications and showed good skin compatibility under the experimental conditions of the study.

摘要

目的

绿咖啡油(GCO)因其润肤和抗老化特性已被用于化妆品配方中。然而,关于其在化妆品配方中应用时的安全性研究不足。

方法

通过MTT还原试验评估GCO以及含2.5 - 15% GCO的配方在人角质形成细胞中的细胞毒性。含15% GCO的配方和赋形剂在使用条件下应用于人类志愿者的掌侧前臂3天。每24小时使用生物物理技术评估经表皮水分流失、角质层含水量和红斑指数。通过斑贴试验检测相同配方的皮肤耐受性。

结果

纯GCO及其配方在浓度高达100μg mL(-1)时均未显示细胞毒性作用。应用含GCO的配方时,经表皮水分流失值略有降低。角质层含水量和红斑指数未显示出显著差异,因为在研究第一天观察到的结果在整个3天内保持不变。使用封闭性斑贴后,没有志愿者出现任何反应。

结论

该研究获得的结果表明,在该研究的实验条件下,GCO似乎对局部应用是安全的,并且显示出良好的皮肤相容性。

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