Rivera D, Rommi K, Fernandes M M, Lantto R, Tzanov T
Grup de Biotecnologia Molecular i Industrial, Departament d'Enginyeria Química, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, Rambla Sant Nebridi 22, Catalonia, 08222, Spain.
VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, P.O. Box 1000, Espoo, FI-02044, Finland.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Oct;37(5):496-505. doi: 10.1111/ics.12222. Epub 2015 May 4.
Despite the great number of substances produced by the skincare industry, very few of them seem to truly have an effect on the skin. Therefore, given the social implications surrounding physical appearance, the search for new bioactive compounds to prevent or attenuate skin ageing and enhance self-image is a priority of current research. In this context, being rich in valuable compounds, such as proteins, phenolics, lipids and vitamins, this study is focused on the potential activity of rapeseed press cake hydrolysates to be used as raw materials for skincare applications.
In this study, the protein-rich press residue from the rapeseed oil industry was converted enzymatically into short-chain biologically active peptides using four protease products with varying substrate specificity - Alcalase 2.4L FG, Protex 6L, Protamex and Corolase 7089. The antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory activities of the obtained hydrolysates were evaluated in vitro while their biocompatibility with human skin fibroblasts was tested.
All hydrolysates were biocompatible with skin fibroblasts after 24 h of exposure, while the non-hydrolysed extract induced cell toxicity. Alcalase 2,4L FG and Protex 6L-obtained hydrolysates were the most promising extracts showing improved bioactivities suitable for skin anti-ageing formulations, namely antioxidant activity, inhibiting approximately 80% cellular reactive oxidative species, anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle properties, inhibiting around 36% of myeloperoxidase activity and over 83% of elastase activity.
The enzymatic technology applied to the rapeseed oil industry costream results in the release of bioactive compounds suitable for skincare applications.
尽管护肤品行业生产了大量物质，但其中似乎只有极少数能真正对皮肤产生作用。因此，鉴于围绕外貌的社会影响，寻找新的生物活性化合物来预防或减轻皮肤衰老并提升自我形象是当前研究的重点。在这种背景下，由于富含蛋白质、酚类、脂质和维生素等有价值的化合物，本研究聚焦于菜籽油饼水解产物用作护肤品原料的潜在活性。
在本研究中，利用四种具有不同底物特异性的蛋白酶产品——碱性蛋白酶2.4L FG、Protex 6L、Protamex和嗜热菌蛋白酶7089，将来自菜籽油行业的富含蛋白质的压榨残渣酶解为短链生物活性肽。对所得水解产物的抗氧化、抗皱和抗炎活性进行了体外评估，同时测试了它们与人类皮肤成纤维细胞的生物相容性。
暴露24小时后，所有水解产物与皮肤成纤维细胞均具有生物相容性，而非水解提取物则诱导细胞毒性。由碱性蛋白酶2,4L FG和Protex 6L获得的水解产物是最有前景的提取物，显示出适用于皮肤抗老化配方的改善后的生物活性，即抗氧化活性，抑制约80%的细胞活性氧化物质、抗炎和抗皱特性，抑制约36%的髓过氧化物酶活性和超过83%的弹性蛋白酶活性。
应用于菜籽油行业共流物的酶技术可释放出适用于护肤品应用的生物活性化合物。
