Richard C, Tillé-Salmon B, Mofid Y
Laboratoire de Mécanique et Rhéologie (LMR) EA 2640, Université François Rabelais de Tours, 7 Avenue Marcel Dassault, 37200, Tours, France.
Centre d'Etudes et de Recherches sur les TEchnologies du SENSoriel (CERTESENS), 56 Avenue Marcel Dassault, 37200, Tours, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016 Feb;38(1):100-8. doi: 10.1111/ics.12242. Epub 2015 Jun 26.
Lipstick is currently one of the most sold products of cosmetics industry, and the competition between the various manufacturers is significant. Customers mainly seek products with high spreadability, especially long-lasting or long wear on the lips. Evaluation tests of cosmetics are usually performed by sensory analysis. This can then represent a considerable cost.
The object of this study was to develop a fast and simple test of delamination (objective method with calibrated instruments) and to interplay the obtained results with those of a discriminative sensory analysis (subjective method) in order to show the relevance of the instrumental test.
Three mid-range lipsticks were randomly chosen and were tested. They were made of compositions as described by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). Instrumental characterization was performed by texture profile analysis and by a special delamination test. The sensory analysis was voluntarily conducted with an untrained panel as blind test to confirm or reverse the possible interplay.
The two approaches or methods gave the same type of classification. The high-fat lipstick had the worst behaviour with the delamination test and the worst notation of the intensity of descriptors with the sensory analysis.
There is a high correlation between the sensory analysis and the instrumental measurements in this study. The delamination test carried out should permit to quickly determine the lasting (screening test) and in consequence optimize the basic formula of lipsticks.
口红是目前化妆品行业中销量最大的产品之一，各制造商之间的竞争十分激烈。消费者主要追求具有高延展性的产品，尤其是在嘴唇上持久不脱妆。化妆品的评估测试通常通过感官分析进行。这可能会带来相当高的成本。
本研究的目的是开发一种快速简单的分层测试（使用校准仪器的客观方法），并将获得的结果与判别性感官分析（主观方法）的结果相互作用，以证明仪器测试的相关性。
随机选择三款中档口红进行测试。它们由国际化妆品成分命名法（INCI）描述的成分制成。通过质地剖面分析和特殊的分层测试进行仪器表征。感官分析由未经训练的小组自愿进行，作为盲测，以确认或推翻可能的相互作用。
两种方法给出了相同类型的分类。高脂肪口红在分层测试中的表现最差，在感官分析中描述符强度的评分也最差。
本研究中感官分析与仪器测量之间存在高度相关性。所进行的分层测试应能快速确定持久性（筛选测试），从而优化口红的基本配方。
