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胶原蛋白:关于其来源及潜在美容应用的综述

Collagen: A review on its sources and potential cosmetic applications.

作者信息

Avila Rodríguez María Isabela, Rodríguez Barroso Laura G, Sánchez Mirna Lorena

机构信息

Tecnologico de Monterrey, Escuela de Ingeniería y Ciencias, Puebla, México.

Dpto. de Ciencia y Tecnología, Laboratorio de Ingeniería Genética y Biología Celular y Molecular - Área Virosis Emergentes y Zoonóticas, Universidad Nacional Quilmes, Bernal, Argentina.

出版信息

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Feb;17(1):20-26. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12450. Epub 2017 Nov 16.

Abstract

Collagen is a fibrillar protein that conforms the conjunctive and connective tissues in the human body, essentially skin, joints, and bones. This molecule is one of the most abundant in many of the living organisms due to its connective role in biological structures. Due to its abundance, strength and its directly proportional relation with skin aging, collagen has gained great interest in the cosmetic industry. It has been established that the collagen fibers are damaged with the pass of time, losing thickness and strength which has been strongly related with skin aging phenomena [Colágeno para todo. 60 y más. 2016. http://www.revista60ymas.es/InterPresent1/groups/revistas/documents/binario/ses330informe.pdf.]. As a solution, the cosmetic industry incorporated collagen as an ingredient of different treatments to enhance the user youth and well-being, and some common presentations are creams, nutritional supplement for bone and cartilage regeneration, vascular and cardiac reconstruction, skin replacement, and augmentation of soft skin among others [J App Pharm Sci. 2015;5:123-127]. Nowadays, the biomolecule can be obtained by extraction from natural sources such as plants and animals or by recombinant protein production systems including yeast, bacteria, mammalian cells, insects or plants, or artificial fibrils that mimic collagen characteristics like the artificial polymer commercially named as KOD. Because of its increased use, its market size is valued over USD 6.63 billion by 2025 [Collagen Market By Source (Bovine, Porcine, Poultry, Marine), Product (Gelatin, Hydrolyzed Collagen), Application (Food & Beverages, Healthcare, Cosmetics), By Region, And Segment Forecasts, 2014 - 2025. Grand View Research. http://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/collagen-market. Published 2017.]. Nevertheless, there has been little effort on identifying which collagen types are the most suitable for cosmetic purposes, for which the present review will try to enlighten in a general scope this unattended matter.

摘要

胶原蛋白是一种纤维状蛋白质,构成人体的结缔组织和连接组织,主要包括皮肤、关节和骨骼。由于其在生物结构中的连接作用,这种分子是许多生物体内含量最丰富的分子之一。由于其丰富性、强度以及与皮肤老化的直接比例关系,胶原蛋白在化妆品行业引起了极大的关注。已经确定,随着时间的推移,胶原纤维会受损,失去厚度和强度,这与皮肤老化现象密切相关[《适用于所有人的胶原蛋白。60岁及以上》。2016年。http://www.revista60ymas.es/InterPresent1/groups/revistas/documents/binario/ses330informe.pdf。]。作为一种解决方案,化妆品行业将胶原蛋白作为不同治疗方法的成分,以提升使用者的年轻状态和健康水平,一些常见的形式包括面霜、用于骨骼和软骨再生的营养补充剂、血管和心脏重建、皮肤替代以及柔软皮肤增厚等[《应用药学杂志》。2015年;5:123 - 127]。如今,这种生物分子可以通过从植物和动物等天然来源提取获得,也可以通过重组蛋白生产系统获得,包括酵母、细菌、哺乳动物细胞、昆虫或植物,或者通过模仿胶原蛋白特性的人工纤维,如商业上名为KOD的人工聚合物。由于其使用量的增加,到2025年其市场规模估计超过66.3亿美元[《按来源(牛、猪、家禽、海洋)、产品(明胶、水解胶原蛋白)、应用(食品与饮料、医疗保健、化妆品)、地区和细分市场预测的胶原蛋白市场,2014 - 2025年》。大观研究公司。http://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/collagen-market。2017年发布。]。然而,在确定哪种胶原蛋白类型最适合用于化妆品目的方面,所做的工作很少,本综述将试图在总体范围内阐明这个被忽视的问题。

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