Muta Keiko, Inomata Shinji, Fukuhara Tadao, Nomura Junko, Nishiyama Toshio, Tagawa Yoh-Ichi, Amano Satoshi
Shiseido Global Innovation Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan.
Shiseido Global Innovation Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan.
J Biosci Bioeng. 2018 Mar;125(3):353-358. doi: 10.1016/j.jbiosc.2017.10.001. Epub 2017 Nov 13.
Exposure to UV radiation to human skin up-regulates the synthesis of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) family. Gelatinases are member of MMPs which have been suggested to play an important role in photoaging such as wrinkle formation. To inhibit gelatinase activity is regarded to be very important to keep healthy skin and to protect wrinkle formation. On the other hand, anti-photoaging agents are expected to be derived from natural resources, especially plants. Plant extracts having gelatinase-inhibitory effect that might be used as safe anti-photoaging ingredient were widely screened. An extract of rhizomes of Curcuma longa L. showed inhibitory effect of gelatinase activity. Curcuminoids and slight amount of compound, 6,11-dihydroxy-3-(4-hydroxy-3-mthoxyphenethyl)-7-[(E)-4-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-2-oxo-3-butenyl]-10-methoxy-2-oxabicyclo[6.3.1.]dodeca-1(11),8(12),9-trien-5-yl (E)-3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-2-propenoate (curcuminoid D) were isolated as the gelatinase-inhibitory components from methanol extract of rhizomes. The structure of curcuminoid D was determined by means of spectral data including H- and C-NMR, and IR. Curcumin exerted the enhancing effect on deposition of basement membrane component at dermal-epidermal junction in skin equivalent model. Topical application of cream containing turmeric extract significantly improved facial skin elasticity and decreased the number of gelatinase-positive stratum corneum clusters in human facial skins. These results indicated that turmeric is an effective ingredient to improve skin condition and to prevent skin from photoaging by suppressing activation of gelatinase chronically caused by UV.
紫外线照射人体皮肤会上调基质金属蛋白酶(MMP)家族的合成。明胶酶是MMPs的成员,据认为在光老化如皱纹形成中起重要作用。抑制明胶酶活性对于保持皮肤健康和防止皱纹形成非常重要。另一方面,抗光老化剂有望来源于自然资源,尤其是植物。广泛筛选了具有明胶酶抑制作用、可能用作安全抗光老化成分的植物提取物。姜黄根茎提取物显示出明胶酶活性抑制作用。从姜黄根茎甲醇提取物中分离出姜黄素类化合物以及少量化合物6,11 - 二羟基 - 3 -(4 - 羟基 - 3 - 甲氧基苯乙基)- 7 - [(E)- 4 -(4 - 羟基 - 3 - 甲氧基苯基)- 2 - 氧代 - 3 - 丁烯基] - 10 - 甲氧基 - 2 - 氧杂双环[6.3.1.]十二碳 - 1(11),8(12),9 - 三烯 - 5 - 基(E)- 3 -(4 - 羟基 - 3 - 甲氧基苯基)- 2 - 丙烯酸酯(姜黄素类化合物D)作为明胶酶抑制成分。姜黄素类化合物D的结构通过包括H - 和C - NMR以及IR的光谱数据确定。在皮肤等效模型中,姜黄素对真皮 - 表皮交界处基底膜成分的沉积有增强作用。局部应用含姜黄提取物的乳膏可显著改善人面部皮肤弹性,并减少人面部皮肤中明胶酶阳性角质层簇的数量。这些结果表明,姜黄是一种有效的成分,可通过抑制紫外线长期引起的明胶酶活化来改善皮肤状况并防止皮肤光老化。