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重新发现欧洲和民族美食。21 世纪欧盟一体化如何塑造索菲亚和贝尔格莱德的食物口味。

Rediscovering Europe and national Cuisine. How EU integration is shaping food tastes in Sofia and Belgrade in the 21st century.

机构信息

History Department, KU, Leuven, Belgium.

出版信息

Appetite. 2019 Feb 1;133:10-17. doi: 10.1016/j.appet.2018.10.022. Epub 2018 Oct 19.

Abstract

This article researches the Europeanisation of the restaurant scenes in Sofia and Belgrade, capitals of an actual EU member-state and an aspiring one. By comparing the representations of foreign cuisines in aspects such as presumed depth and breadth of customers' knowledge, incorporation of culinary terms, use of authentic ingredients and presence of native chefs, the research establishes similarities between tastes and lifestyle aspirations in the two cities, but also differences in their realisation. This comparison outlines the structural advantages provided by EU membership with its facilitation of the movement of goods and people. Considering the researched material within the debate over European integration endangering local identities, the article contradicts such claims and demonstrates how the influx of foreign cuisines creates pressures to modernize and reassert national cuisines, integrating them within their culinary region.

摘要

本文研究了欧盟成员国保加利亚首都索非亚和欧盟候选国塞尔维亚首都贝尔格莱德的餐厅场景的欧洲化。通过比较两国在顾客知识深度和广度、烹饪术语的使用、使用正宗食材和本地厨师的存在等方面对外国美食的表现,研究确立了这两个城市在口味和生活方式方面的相似之处,但也存在实现方式上的差异。这种比较勾勒出了欧盟成员国身份所提供的结构性优势,因为它促进了商品和人员的流动。考虑到所研究的材料是在关于欧洲一体化危及地方身份的辩论中,本文反驳了这些说法,并表明外国美食的涌入如何给当地美食带来现代化和重新确立的压力,将其融入到所在的烹饪地区中。

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