Schiavon Daiana, Martini Daniela Novello, Brocco Gabriela, Santos Júlia Scherer, Anzolin Ana Paula, Rossato-Grando Luciana Grazziotin, Omidian Hamid, Bertol Charise Dallazem
Curso de Farmácia, Universidade de Passo Fundo, Passo Fundo, Brasil.
Curso de Farmácia, Centro Universitário União Dinâmica das Cataratas, Foz do Iguaçu, Paraná, Brasil.
Adv Pharm Bull. 2019 Jun;9(2):241-248. doi: 10.15171/apb.2019.027. Epub 2019 Jun 1.
We aimed to evaluate the effect of blueberry extract and microparticles (MP) on sunscreen performance of multifunctional cosmetics. Octocrylene (OCT), benzophenone-3 (BENZ-3) and Tinosorb® M (MBBT) were employed as UV filters. An modeling was used to determine the UV filters concentrations to obtain high values of sunscreen protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF). MBBT and blueberry-loaded microparticles (MP) and MBBT-loaded microparticles (MP) were prepared by spray-drying. OCT and BENZ-3 were added in the oil phase of cosmetics. Cosmetics A and B contained MP and MP, respectively, and cosmetic C was prepared without MP. Characterization, physicochemical stability and SPF was performed. UV filters distribution in human stratum corneum (SC) for each cosmetic was performed. Anti-oxidant activity of blueberry extract was evaluated. Sunscreen combination with the highest SPF was selected for formulations. Formulations A and B maintained their rheological behavior over time, unlike formulation C. SPFs for formulations A, B and C were 51.0, 33.7 and 49.6, respectively. We also developed and validated a method for analysis of the UV filters by HPLC/ PDA suitable for the assay. In Tape stripping test, MBBT showed SC distribution similar for all cosmetic formulations. OCT and BENZ-3 distribution to formulation A and C was also similar. Blueberry extract showed antioxidant capacity of 16.71 μg/mL equivalent to vitamin C. Cosmetics containing MPs presented better physical stability. Blueberry increased the photoprotective capacity of the formulations and added extra benefits due to its anti-oxidant and anti-aging properties.
我们旨在评估蓝莓提取物和微粒（MP）对多功能化妆品防晒性能的影响。选用二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯（OCT）、二苯甲酮-3（BENZ-3）和双-乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三嗪（MBBT）作为紫外线过滤剂。采用一种模型来确定紫外线过滤剂的浓度，以获得高值的防晒系数（SPF）和UVA防护系数（UVA-PF）。通过喷雾干燥制备了负载MBBT的微粒（MP）和负载蓝莓的微粒（MP）。将OCT和BENZ-3添加到化妆品的油相中。化妆品A和B分别含有MP和MP，而化妆品C的制备未添加MP。对其进行了表征、物理化学稳定性和SPF测定。对每种化妆品在人体角质层（SC）中的紫外线过滤剂分布进行了研究。评估了蓝莓提取物的抗氧化活性。选择具有最高SPF的防晒组合用于配方。与配方C不同，配方A和B随时间保持其流变行为。配方A、B和C的SPF分别为51.0、33.7和49.6。我们还开发并验证了一种适用于该测定的通过高效液相色谱/光电二极管阵列检测法分析紫外线过滤剂的方法。在胶带剥离试验中，MBBT在所有化妆品配方中的SC分布相似。OCT和BENZ-3在配方A和C中的分布也相似。蓝莓提取物显示出相当于维生素C的16.71μg/mL的抗氧化能力。含有MP的化妆品表现出更好的物理稳定性。蓝莓提高了配方的光保护能力，并因其抗氧化和抗老化特性带来了额外益处。
