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竞技攀岩的心肺需求。

Cardiorespiratory demands of competitive rock climbing.

机构信息

Department of Anaesthetics, Northumbria Specialist Emergency Care Hospital, Cramlington, Northumberland, NE23 6NZ, UK.

School of Clinical and Applied Sciences, Leeds Beckett University, Leeds, LS1 3HE, UK.

出版信息

Appl Physiol Nutr Metab. 2021 Feb;46(2):161-168. doi: 10.1139/apnm-2020-0566. Epub 2020 Aug 19.

Abstract

Rock climbing has become a mainstream sport, contested on the Olympic stage. The work/rest pattern of bouldering is unique among disciplines, and little is known about its physiological demands. This study characterised the cardiorespiratory responses to simulated competition. Eleven elite boulderers (7 male) volunteered to participate (age = 23.3 ± 4.5 years; mass = 68.2 ± 9.7 kg; stature = 1.73 ± 0.06 m; body fat = 10.4% ± 5%). Subjects completed incremental treadmill running to determine maximal capacities. On a separate day, they undertook a simulated Olympic-style climbing competition comprising 5 boulder problems, each separated by 5 min of rest. Pulmonary ventilation, gas exchange, and heart rate were assessed throughout. Total climbing time was 18.9 ± 2.7 min. Bouldering elicited a peak oxygen uptake of 35.8 ± 7.3 mL·kg·min (∼75% of treadmill maximum) and a peak heart rate of 162 ± 14 beats·min (∼88% of maximum). Subjects spent 22.9% ± 8.6% of climbing time above the gas exchange threshold. At exercise cessation, there was an abrupt and significant increase in tidal volume (1.4 ± 0.4 vs. 1.8 ± 0.4 L; = 0.006, = 0.83) despite unchanged minute ventilation. Cardiorespiratory parameters returned to baseline within 4 min of the rest period. In conclusion, competitive bouldering elicits substantial cardiorespiratory demand and evidence of tidal volume constraint. Further studies are warranted to explore the effect of cardiorespiratory training on climbing performance. Competitive bouldering evokes a high fraction of maximal oxygen uptake and prolonged periods above the gas exchange threshold. Climbing appears to impose a constraint on tidal volume expansion. Cardiorespiratory indices in elite climbers return to baseline within 2-4 min.

摘要

攀岩已经成为一项主流运动,在奥林匹克舞台上进行竞技。抱石的工作/休息模式在学科中是独特的,其生理需求知之甚少。本研究对模拟比赛的心肺反应进行了特征描述。11 名精英抱石运动员(7 名男性)自愿参加(年龄=23.3±4.5 岁;体重=68.2±9.7 公斤;身高=1.73±0.06 米;体脂=10.4%±5%)。受试者完成递增式跑步机跑步以确定最大容量。在另一天,他们进行了一项模拟奥运会风格的攀岩比赛,包括 5 个抱石问题,每个问题之间休息 5 分钟。在整个过程中评估了肺通气、气体交换和心率。总攀爬时间为 18.9±2.7 分钟。抱石运动产生的峰值耗氧量为 35.8±7.3mL·kg·min(约为跑步机最大值的 75%),峰值心率为 162±14 次·min(约为最大值的 88%)。受试者在攀爬时间的 22.9%±8.6%以上超过气体交换阈值。运动停止时,尽管分钟通气量没有变化,但潮气量仍突然显著增加(1.4±0.4 与 1.8±0.4 L; = 0.006, = 0.83)。心肺参数在休息期内的 4 分钟内恢复到基线。总之,竞技抱石运动需要大量的心肺功能,并且存在潮气量限制的证据。需要进一步的研究来探讨心肺训练对攀岩表现的影响。 竞技抱石运动需要大量的氧气摄取,并且有长时间超过气体交换阈值。 抱石运动似乎对潮气量的扩张施加了限制。 精英攀岩者的心肺指数在 2-4 分钟内恢复到基线。

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